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	<title>Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG 1498mm - Instruction manual/13/en - Revision history</title>
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		<id>https://wiki.kavanrc.com/index.php?title=Translations:KAVAN_Strike_DLG_1498mm_-_Instruction_manual/13/en&amp;diff=28213&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>FuzzyBot: FuzzyBot moved page Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual/13/en to Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG 1498mm - Instruction manual/13/en without leaving a redirect: Part of translatable page &quot;KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual&quot;</title>
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		<updated>2024-12-11T12:28:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;FuzzyBot moved page &lt;a href=&quot;/index.php?title=Translations:KAVAN_Strike_DLG_-_Instruction_manual/13/en&amp;amp;action=edit&amp;amp;redlink=1&quot; class=&quot;new&quot; title=&quot;Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual/13/en (page does not exist)&quot;&gt;Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual/13/en&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;/Translations:KAVAN_Strike_DLG_1498mm_-_Instruction_manual/13/en&quot; title=&quot;Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG 1498mm - Instruction manual/13/en&quot;&gt;Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG 1498mm - Instruction manual/13/en&lt;/a&gt; without leaving a redirect: Part of translatable page &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/index.php?title=KAVAN_Strike_DLG_-_Instruction_manual&amp;amp;action=edit&amp;amp;redlink=1&quot; class=&quot;new&quot; title=&quot;KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual (page does not exist)&quot;&gt;KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
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		<author><name>FuzzyBot</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
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		<title>FuzzyBot: Importing a new version from external source</title>
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		<updated>2024-05-13T10:00:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Importing a new version from external source&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;==== Wing ====&lt;br /&gt;
* The wing is to be built directly on the building plan protected by a thin sheet of clear plastic film. The wing ribs and riblets are supplied with jig tabs on the bottom side to allow building the wing with an under-cambered profile on a flat surface; at the same time producing the washout (the wing trailing edge is higher by 3 mm at the tips than at the root) necessary for a stable flight of the model. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;DO NOT CUT the mounting jigs; they will be removed only after the entire wing has been built.&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; There is also the rib spacing jig to correctly set the leading edge ends of rib and riblet mounting jigs. (&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Fig. 12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;)&lt;br /&gt;
* Epoxy together the wing central ribs &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W5&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W6&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;; insert 3 mm beech dowels into the holes to obtain the correct match. {{Note|type=info|&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Note:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Make a left and right pair of assemblies. (Fig. 9)}}&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the plywood reinforcement plate &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W39&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (for the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W64&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; DLG pin) into the wing tip &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W35&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and then the wing tip to the trailing edge &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W30&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; on a flat working surface; glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W36&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W37&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; reinforcement plates in place creating a notch for the plywood wing tip spar &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W38&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. (&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Fig. 10 + 11&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;)&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread all the wing ribs and riblets &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W3&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; onto the main spar carbon tube &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W60&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;; use a round file to trim the openings in the ribs to set the ribs at the required angle. Thread the auxiliary carbon rod spar &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W61&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; through the respective holes in the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W3&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs. (&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Fig. 12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;)&lt;br /&gt;
* Put the main spar with ribs onto the building plan and insert the ends of ribs into the corresponding notches in the trailing edge &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W44&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W45&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; for the right-wing half). Insert the front ends of the rib jig tabs into the corresponding notches of the rib spacing jig. Align all the parts to the correct position over the building plan; pin down where necessary and then glue the ribs &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W4&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W31&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W60&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; main spar tube, &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W61&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; auxiliary spar and the trailing edge. Epoxy the wing tip spar &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W38&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; into the main spar tube and to the wing tip into the notch between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W36&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W37&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; reinforcement plates. Glue the wing tip to the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rib and finally, the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rib to the main spar and trailing edge. Glue the balsa gusset &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W33&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rib and the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W31&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; riblet.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the root rib &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W3&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; using the root rib dihedral jig in place. (&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Fig. 13&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;)&lt;br /&gt;
* Trim the notches for the leading edge &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W46&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (3 mm beech dowel) in the ribs and riblets as necessary. Glue the leading edge (starting from the wing tip and then rib by rib towards the wing root). &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 14)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Insert the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W47&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rear spar and the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W48&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron leading edge into the corresponding notches in ribs &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W4&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. Align them both flush with the upper edge of the ribs but do not glue yet.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W51&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron servo frame together with the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W52&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; upper cover plate between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W14&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs from above (the opening in the frame fits KAVAN GO-06MG servos; you might have to trim it if other servos are used). Glue the aileron &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W62&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; root and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W63&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; tip ribs in place - to the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W48&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron leading edge and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W44(45)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; trailing edge &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;ONLY&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. Glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W50&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron horn block between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W14&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs; flush with the upper edge of the ribs and the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W48&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron leading edge. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 15+16)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W34&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; reinforcement plate between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W30&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W32&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs, glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W40&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W41&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; reinforcements to the wing tip, and glue the two W49 gussets in place. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 17)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Epoxy the plywood wing joiner bay plates &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W43&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; into the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W3&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;, &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W4&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W5/W6&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs - be sure the bay will accommodate the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W42&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; wing joiner nicely. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 20)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Thoroughly check the entire wing, you are almost there; the wing sports the required 3 mm washout at the tip due to the rib mounting tabs now. Once satisfied, apply cyano to all joints. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Note:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; The &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W47&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rear spar and the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W48&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron leading edge are supposed to be glued to the ribs ONLY, not to each other!&lt;br /&gt;
* Now you can carefully cut the rib jig tabs using a sharp modeller’s knife.&lt;br /&gt;
* Soak the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W51&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; aileron servo frame and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W52&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; plate with thin cyano or thinned epoxy from the inside. Glue the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W53&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; bottom aileron servo cover between the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W14&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 18)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Sand the bottom side of all ribs and riblets to shape with No. 120 sandpaper.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the bottom wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W57&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (with a rectangular opening for the aileron servo cable) and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W58&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; in place; glue the plywood reinforcement plate &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W54&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; on the top of &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W58&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; along the area of the wing fixing bolt. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 19+20)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Thread a thick sewing thread through rectangular openings for the aileron servo cable in the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W4&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W12&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ribs and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W57&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; bottom sheeting and secure it with pieces of sticky tape - it will help you to navigate the aileron servo cable through later.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glue the top wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W56&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W55&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; in place. Sand the wing root flush with the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W3&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; rib - the slanted position set with the root rib dihedral jig ensures the correct wing dihedral. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 21)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Use a fine razor saw and modeller’s knife blade to cut through the ribs and trailing edge to separate the aileron from the wing. Bevel the aileron leading edge by 30° following the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Det. A-A&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. Finally, sand the entire aileron smooth using No. 180 sandpaper. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 23+24)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Assemble the other wing half in the same way.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sand both two wing halves with No. 120 sandpaper. Trial fit - no glue yet - the wing halves and the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W42&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; wing joiner; insert the riblets &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W1&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W2&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; between the root ribs. Once satisfied with the fit, epoxy the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W42&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; wing joiner, and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W1&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W2&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; riblets to one wing half aligned to match the wing root rib. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 25)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Put the wing half with the wing joiner glued in on your workbench (protected by a sheet of plastic film) so the alignment pin of the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W1&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; riblet protrudes over the edge of the table; then epoxy the other wing panel. Be sure the trailing edges of both wing panels match perfectly. Double-check the correct wing halves alignment and let the epoxy set. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 26)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Epoxy the wing bolt plate &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W59&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to the top of the wing centre; once the glue has cured drill a 4.2 mm hole for the wing bolt through the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;W59&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;(Fig. 26)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Now it is the time to decide which tip of the wing the discus launch pin is to be glued into - the left tip for a right-handed pilot, the right tip for a left-handed pilot. Laminate a strip of the fibreglass cloth around the hole for the discus launch pin on top and bottom of the wing tip. You can use a special low-viscosity laminating/finishing epoxy or a regular epoxy glue thinned slightly by an epoxy paint/dope thinner. Once the resin has cured, sand the entire wing smooth with No. 180 sandpaper.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>FuzzyBot</name></author>
	</entry>
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