Jump to content
Main menu
Main menu
move to sidebar
hide
Navigation
Main page
KAVAN media
Website
Facebook
Instagram
YouTube
Languages
Language links are at the top of the page across from the title.
KAVAN RC Wiki
Search
Search
English
Log in
Personal tools
Dark mode
Log in
Pages for logged out editors
learn more
Contributions
Talk
Editing
KAVAN Cumul 100 - Instruction manual
(section)
Page
Discussion
English
Read
Edit
Edit source
View history
Tools
Tools
move to sidebar
hide
Actions
Read
Edit
Edit source
View history
General
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Page information
Warning:
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
log in
or
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
not
fill this in!
=== Model assembly === ==== The empennage ==== Everything has been designed extremely light, yet strong enough. The horizontal tailplane is removable for easy transport/storage. * Trial fit the parts of the horizontal stabilizer, elevator, fin and rudder – no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain perfect fit. Bevel the leading edged of the rudder and elevator to allow the control surface travel as indicated on the building plan. * Epoxy the '''T8''' and '''T9''' plywood inserts into the '''T10''' stabilizer centre part. Glue together all the parts using medium cyano or white glue. '''(Fig. 1+2)''' * Put the tail feathers aside for now. They will be finished after covering, once the tailplane seat is installed to the tail boom. ==== Wing ==== ===== Wing centre section ===== * Cut out all the CNC milled ribs using a sharp modeller’s knife or jigsaw, check them with the plan and mark the numbers on them with a soft pencil or marker. Sand as necessary to fit all spars easily. * Assemble the main spar shear webbing. Epoxy the '''W30''' wing joiner bays to the '''W29''' balsa parts. Enclose the bays; epoxy the '''W31''' plywood plates (front side of the shear webbing) and '''W32''' (rear side). Prevent the epoxy from hardening inside the bays. Put the parts together with the carbon joiner inserted, then immediately remove the joiner (do not forget cleaning the joiner using a paper tissue and rubbing alcohol before the glue sets). '''(Det. B, Fig. 3)''' * Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar® thread and soak with medium CA or epoxy. Epoxy together both two shear webbing halves reinforcing the joint with the plywood joiners '''W27''' (short one, front side) and '''W28''' (long one, rear side). '''(Det. B, Fig. 3+4+5)''' * Epoxy together the wing central ribs '''W1''' and '''W2'''. Insert 3 mm beech dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair of ribs.|type=info}} * Epoxy the plywood wing bolt plates '''W15''' and '''W18''' between the '''W1'''/'''W2''' ribs. Glue the balsa blocks '''W16''' and '''W17''' onto them (trim the '''W17''' first to match the outline of the '''W1''' ribs). Sand the W16 flush with the edge of '''W2''' ribs. '''(Fig. 6)''' * Glue the '''W26''' flap servo trays between the '''W5''' ribs.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair of assemblies.|type=info}} * You can use medium cyano for gluing most of the wing centre section parts. In that case you are supposed to put together most of the wing without glue at first. Once checked for the correct alignment, the cyano is applies to the joints from the outside. Or you can use white glue. In that case the wing is assembled step by step pinned down on the building plan protected by a thin clear plastic film. Start with pinning down the '''W9''' bottom main spar. The '''W11''', '''W12''', '''W14''' and '''W38''' parts are to be glued after the wing is removed from the building board. * '''Assembling the wing using cyano:''' Insert all ribs and riblets into the respective notches, slide on the '''W13'''/'''W19''' trailing edge. Cyano the '''W6''' ribs to the shear webbing using the 7 deg dihedral jig (the '''W7''' outer ribs are to be glued later - after the wing centre section has been paired with the wing panels). * Insert, but not glue, the '''W11''' auxiliary spar (5 mm balsa) and the '''W12''' flap leading edge (7 mm balsa). Align the top edge of these parts flush with the top edge of the ribs (you will trim the protruding part at the bottom later, once glued in place). * Cyano the '''W25''' flap horn blocks in place. * Double check the correct position of all ribs and spars. Lay the wing on the building plan. Once satisfied, apply cyano to all joints.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Be sure not to glue the '''W11''' and '''W12''' parts to each other, just to the ribs.|type=info}} * Insert and cyano the '''W10''' rear spar (6×3 mm pine stick). * Pin down the wing centre section to your building board. Butt joint the '''W9''' main spar (10×2 mm pine) to the edge of the '''W39''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W9''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W39''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Once the glue has cured, remove the wing from your building board. Glue the '''W14''' support spar in place as well as the '''W9''' bottom main spar. Use white glue to secure the '''W38''' bottom D-box sheeting in place. '''(Fig. 7)''' * Sand the front edge of the '''W39''' and '''W38''' balsa sheeting flush with the front edge of the ribs and glue the '''W8''' leading edge in place. * Glue the '''W24''' bottom cover plates of the flap servo bays between the '''W5''' ribs. Glue the '''W33''' flap root ribs in place. * Sheet the space between '''W2''' ribs from the bottom and top with '''W20a''', '''W20b''' (with the '''W40''' connector reinforcement plate glued on top), '''W21''', '''W22''' and '''W23'''. '''(Det. C)''' * Sand the sheeting flush with the edges of '''W2''' ribs. Drill the hole for the front wing bolt through the '''W39''' top sheeting. Taper the top edges of the wing bolt holes to match the supplied countersunk screws. Soak the tapered area with thin cyano to reinforce it. * Glue the '''W47''' gussets in place. * Fine sand the entire wing centre section, pay attention to the leading edge, sand the W6 ribs flush. Trial fit the flap servos. Prepare the aileron and flap extension cables. To allow threading the cables after the wing has been covered, you should put a thread through the holes in ribs secured by strips of sticky tape. Or you can glue 6 mm plastic tubes (not included in the kit). See the dotted lines on the building plan. There is a pair of the MPX8 8-pin connectors supplied in the kit suitable for the cable connection of aileron and flap servos and your receiver. The male part (with pins) is to be secured by screws into the fuselage, the female part into the wing. '''(Fig. 11+21)''' * Solder the extension cables with (+) and (-) pins shared, the remaining pins are for the servo signal leads. You can use regular servo connectors between the wing centre section and outer panels, but the sturdier MR30 connectors ([https://kavanrc.com/item/mr30-connector-1pair-145913 KAV36.131] - not supplied in the kit) are more suitable for the task. If you are going to use them, install the male part (with pins) of the connector into the wing centre section. It is probably for the best installing all the cables before the wing is covered. Do not forget double-check the correct polarity and connection first! The connectors are to be cyanoed to the wing after the covering. * Use a fine razor saw to cut the root part of flaps through the '''W13'''/'''W19''' trailing edges and between '''W33''' and '''W2''' ribs. Cut through the ribs between the '''W11''' auxiliary spar and '''W12''' flap leading edge with a sharp modeller’s knife or razor saw and remove the flaps. Bevel the leading edge in 27 degrees angle, allowing the up deflection of the flaps (flaps are hinged on the bottom side of the wing). '''(Fig. 8)''' * Trial fit the carbon wing joiners into the respective bays. There should be a tight fit, no play. If there was a significant play, put some epoxy to the appropriate area of the joiner and sand as necessary once the glue hardens. Trial fit the '''W7''' liteply outer ribs - do not glue yet. ===== Wing outer panels ===== * The wing outer panels are to be assembled in one piece. The winglets will be cut off subsequently. Build the wing panel on a flat building board. The trailing edge has to be supported so the wing tip was be 2 mm above the building board creating the required washout (the railing edge lays flat on the working surface at the '''W50''' root rib, then it is supported in at lest three points sot it was 2 mm above the building board at the '''W74''' end rib). * Assemble the main spar shear webbing. Epoxy the '''W37''' wing joiner bays to the '''W34''' balsa parts. Enclose the bays. Epoxy the '''W36''' plywood plates (front side of the shear webbing) and '''W35''' (rear side). Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar® thread and soak with medium CA or epoxy.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair.|type=info}} '''(Det. A, Fig. 3+9+5)''' * Assemble the wing panels without glue at first. Insert all ribs and riblets into the respective notches in the shear webbing. There are two 5 mm ribs '''W66''' and '''W67''' dividing the outer panel and the winglet (you can glue both two ribs square to the shear webbing and bevel both at 4 degrees angle once the winglet has been cut off, or you can one of them - preferably '''W67''') glue in 8 degrees angle using the supplied 8 deg dihedral jig). * Slide on the '''W83'''/'''W84''' trailing edges onto the ribs. Cyano the '''W50''' root ribs to the shear webbing using the 7 deg dihedral jig (the '''W49''' outer ribs are to be glued later - after the wing panels have been paired with the wing centre section). * Insert, but not glue, the '''W79''' auxiliary spar (5 mm balsa) and the '''W80''' aileron leading edge (7 mm balsa). * Cyano the '''W46''' aileron horn blocks between the '''W56''' and '''W58''' ribs (not to the '''W80''' yet). * Double check the correct position of all ribs and spars; lay the wing on the building plan. Once satisfied, pin down the wing outer panel to your building board with the trailing edge supported as described above. Apply medium cyano to all joints (do not glue the '''W79''' and '''W80''' parts yet). Insert and cyano the '''W78''' wing panel rear spar (6×3 mm pine stick) and the '''W85''' winglet rear spar (4×2 mm pine). * Butt joint the '''W77''' main spar (10×2 mm pine) to the edge of the '''W89''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W89''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W89''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Butt joint the '''W91''' winglet main spar (8×2 mm balsa) to the edge of the '''W88''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W91''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W88''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Once the glue has cured, remove the outer wing panel from your building board. Align the top edge of the '''W79''' and '''W80''' flush with the top edge of the ribs and glue them to the ribs, not to each other. Trim the protruding part at the bottom side of the wing. Put the wing panel down onto your building board to check the trailing edge is '''straight and elevated by 2 mm at the wing tip'''. * Glue the '''W43''' wing tip in place. * Glue the '''W90''' support spar in place as well as the '''W77''' and '''W91''' bottom main spar. Use white glue to secure the '''W87''' and '''W86''' bottom D-box sheeting in place. * Sand the front edge of the '''W87'''/'''W89''' and '''W86'''/'''W88''' balsa sheeting flush with the front edge of the ribs and glue the '''W75''' and '''W76''' leading edges in place. * Glue the '''W48''' winglet gussets in place. Glue the '''W44''' bottom cover plates of the aileron servo bays between the '''W56''' and '''W58''' ribs. * Sand the '''W50''' root ribs flush. Trial fit the carbon wing joiners into the respective bays. There should be a tight fit, no play. Trial fit the '''W49''' liteply outer ribs - do not glue yet. * Slide the wing panel onto the carbon wing joiner together with the '''W49''' and '''W7''' liteply ribs. Slide on the wing centre section as well. Check how the ribs and wing parts are matching. Trim them as necessary to achieve a perfect fit. Once satisfied, epoxy the '''W7''' and '''W49''' ribs in place. * Fine sand the entire wing panels, pay attention to the leading edge. * Cut off the winglets. Use a fine razor saw to cut through (from the bottom) between the '''W66''' and '''W67''' ribs. If you have glued the ribs square to the main spar, now bevel both at 4 deg angle in order to achieve the required 8 degrees winglet dihedral. * Cut through the ribs between the '''W79''' auxiliary spar and '''W80''' aileron leading edge with a sharp modeller’s knife or razor saw and remove the flaps. Bevel the leading edge in 28 degrees angle allowing the down deflection of the ailerons (ailerons are hinged on the top side of the wing). * Glue the winglets to the wing panel (the butt joint protects the wing as there is a good chance the winglet breaks of in an accident - whilst the rest of the wing will remain undamaged). * Glue the '''W103''' aluminium alignment pins into holes in '''W49'''/'''W50''' ribs. '''(Fig. 13)''' * Trial fit the aileron servos. Prepare their extension cables. To allow threading the cables after the wing has been covered you should put a thread through the holes in ribs secured by strips of sticky tape. Or you can glue 6 mm plastic tubes (not included in the kit) - see the dotted lines on the building plan. You can use regular servo connectors between the wing centre section and outer panels, but the sturdier MR30 connectors ([https://kavanrc.com/item/mr30-connector-1pair-145913 KAV36.131] - not supplied in the kit) are more suitable for the task. If you are going to use them, install the female part (with sockets) of the connector into the wing panels. It is probably for the best installing all the cables before the wing is covered. Do not forget double check the correct polarity and connection first! The connectors are to be cyanoed to the wing after the covering. ===== Covering ===== * Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360–400 sandpaper and carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on film does not stick well to a dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released off the sandpaper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly). * Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent KAVAN film, Oracover®, Oralight® etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with the covering film of your choice please. ===== Hinging the control surfaces ===== * Use strips of a high quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or strips of the same iron-on film you used for the covering. Remember to apply the tape with the control surface deflected to the limit in order to get free movement of the particular control surface. ===== Aileron and flap servo installation ===== * If not done before covering, insert the aileron and flap servo extension cables in place. Install the aileron and flap servos with arm set to neutral with your radio on (to allow for the max. travels it is recommended setting the aileron servo arms offset by 15–20 degrees forward and flap servo arms by 15–20 degrees back). Cyano the '''W100''' flap horns (longer fibreglass arms without triangular opening) into the '''W25''' blocks and the '''W101''' aileron horns (shorter fibreglass arms without triangular opening) into '''W46''' blocks. Make the servo linkage: cyano one all-plastic quick link and one quick link with metal pin to the ends of Ø2 mm carbon rods (the all-plastic quick link is a sort of safety device protecting the servos on a rough landing or other mishaps). '''(Fig. 10)''' * Double check the correct operation of aileron and flap servos. Once satisfied, cyano the MPX8 and MR30 (if used) connectors in place. '''(Fig. 11+12 +13)''' * Secure the '''W41''' and '''W42''' servo covers with strips of thin double sided sticky tape. ==== Fuselage ==== * The fuselage consists of the '''F2''' carbon reinforced fibreglass part and the '''F1''' carbon tail boom with milled slots for the fin and horizontal tailplane pylon. * '''Horizontal tailplane pylon:''' Epoxy the aluminium captive nuts M4 and M3 into the '''F9''' liteply horizontal stabilizer pylon matching the openings in the '''F10''' horizontal tailplane seat that is to be epoxied square onto the top of the pylon. Glue the '''F11''' balsa blocks on the sides of the '''F9''' pylon. Sand the blocks to match the outline of '''F9''' and '''F10'''. Trial fit the pylon into the slot in the '''F1''' tail boom. Trim the bottom of the '''F11''' blocks until the '''F9''' connects with the bottom of the tail boom and the balsa blocks are matching the surface of the boom. Round the leading and trailing edges of the pylon and cover it with your favourite iron-on film - now it is prepared for the final assembly. '''(Fig. 14)''' * Drill and cut 2 mm slots for the rudder (right side) and elevator (left side) push rod exits - refer to '''Fig. 16+17'''. Insert the elevator and rudder push rod sleeves into the '''F1''' tail boom threading them out through the respective exit slots. Epoxy the horizontal tailplane pylon in place. '''(Fig. 15 + 16 + 17)''' * Slide the smallest of the three push rod plywood holders (packed in the bag. no. 1) onto the push rod sleeves and push inside the tail boom using a suitable hardwood stick. Secure it with a small amount of epoxy or cyano. * Attach the horizontal tailplane to the pylon and secure with screws; remove the covering film from the fin-tail boom contact area and insert the fin into the slot in the tail boom. Trim as necessary; double check the fin was square to the horizontal tailplane. Once satisfied, epoxy the fin in place. Epoxy the '''F6''' tail skid in place as well. * Insert and glue the two remaining plywood push rod holders into the tail boom. * '''Tow hook (glider):''' Disassemble the supplied tow hook, use the '''F8''' plate as a template to drill the openings for the M3 screws and 4.5–5 mm slot for the '''F7''' hook and its setting screw (assuming the CG position is 77–81 mm behind the leading edge of the wing, the tow hook is to be positioned 4–10 mm in front the CG depending on the wind). Install the tow hook into the fuselage. '''(Fig. 18)''' * '''Firewall (electric):''' Glue together the liteply nose cutting jig (32 mm spinner is assumed). Mark the cutting line with a soft pencil; cut the nose with a razor saw and sand flush. Epoxy the '''F3''' firewall in place (check whether your motor matches the firewall first. Trim if necessary or make a new firewall of 3 mm plywood or fibreglass plate). '''(Fig. 19)''' * Trim the servo tray '''F4E''' to match your servos if necessary and insert it into the fuselage (the long cut-out for your flight pack towards the tail). The tray is to be glued in place only after you have checked the correct CG position with your motor, ESC, servos and flight pack (3S LiPo 750–850 mAh for the contest flying. Anything 3S that will fit the fuselage for Sunday flying) installed. '''(Fig. 20)''' * '''Aileron and flap servos connector:''' A pair of the MPX8 8-pin connectors is supplied in the kit suitable for the cable connection of aileron and flap servos and your receiver. The male part (with pins) is to be secured by screws into the fuselage, the female part into the wing. Solder the extension cables with (+) and (-) pins shared, the remaining pins are for the servo signal leads. '''(Fig. 21)''' * '''Servo tray (glider):''' The servo tray '''F4''' supplied in the kit is tailored to [https://kavanrc.com/item/go-1020mg-0-08s-60-7-5kg-cm-140262 KAVAN GO-1020MG]/[https://kavanrc.com/item/go-1021mg-0-055ss-60-10-4kg-cm-157525 GO-1021MG] servos or similar. The servos are to be secured using the supplied fibreglass stoppers. If you are going to use different servos, trim the tray as necessary or make a new one to match your servos. Insert the servo tray into the fuselage allowing the clearance for your receiver battery in the nose. Once satisfied, epoxy the tray in place. '''(Fig. 22)''' * '''Tail boom installation:''' Insert the tail boom into the fibreglass fuselage carefully - trim the bay in the fuselage if necessary. Check whether the elevator and rudder push rods are still moving freely in their sleeves. * Once satisfied, attach the horizontal tailplane and wing centre section. Apply 30 min epoxy to the contact surfaces and insert the tail boom into the fuselage taking care the horizontal tailplane and the wing were parallel. Double check the correct alignment before the glue cures. * '''Elevator and rudder servos and horns installation:''' (If you are building the electric version, install your motor with propeller and ESC, secure the wing with servos installed and the horizontal tailplane, insert your receiver, flight pack and the '''F4E''' servo tray with servos into the fuselage. Moving the servo tray and flight pack try to achieve the CG position 77–81 mm behind the wing leading edge without any additional ballast if possible. Once satisfied, epoxy the '''F4E''' servo tray in place.) Cut the push rot sleeves to make room for the full servo travels (leave a margin for the ball links and threaded couplers). Remove the piano wire push rods and solder the M2/0,8 mm brass threaded couplers to one end. Screw the M2 ball links on. Insert the push rods back into their respective sleeves and secure the ball links to the rudder and elevator horns (the ones w. triangular opening) with supplied screws. '''(Fig. 16+17)''' * Fit the horizontal tailplane to the fuselage. Insert the control horns into the rudder and elevator - do not glue yet. Set the servos in neutral position with your radio on and mark the correct length of the push rod wires. Make a “Z” bend on the end of the pushrods or solder the M2/0,8 mm brass threaded couplers, screw on the plastic quicklinks and attach the push rods to the rudder and elevator servo arms. Check once again and only then cyano the control horns in place. Do not forget to glue the end of the elevator push rod tube to the fuselage in the cockpit. * '''Canopy:''' You can secure the canopy simply using strips of clear sticky tape or you can make a spring lock as per '''Fig. 23'''. Make two ca 65 mm long loops of 1.0–1.2 mm piano wire (not supplied in the kit) and epoxy them inside the canopy overlapping by 8–10 mm. Bend the ends up slightly. '''(Fig. 23)''' ==== Tow hook (glider) ==== * Keep the recommender CG position 77–81 mm behind the wing leading edge. Set the tow hook 4 mm in front the CG for the first flight. (You have to loose the front screw in order to move the tow hook.) ==== Power system installation (electric version) ==== * Fit your motor using appropriate screws to the firewall. Secure the ESC and power pack using hook-and-loop tape into the cockpit. With your RC set on test whether the motor rotates in the correct direction (counter clockwise when looking from the front) If it not the case, change the setting of your ESC or swap any two of the three cables between the motor and ESC. Fit 32 mm spinner with blades corresponding to your motor and battery set-up. ==== Recommended control surface throw, CG position ==== * '''CG position:''' 77–81 mm * '''Rudder:''' ±32 deg * '''Elevator:''' +18/-17 deg * '''Ailerons:''' +20/-10 deg, butterfly +25 deg * '''Flaps:''' +20/-10 deg, butterfly -38 deg
Summary:
Please note that all contributions to KAVAN RC Wiki may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource (see
KAVAN RC Wiki:Copyrights
for details).
Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!
Cancel
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Toggle limited content width