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KAVAN Cumul 100 - Instruction manual
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==== Wing ==== ===== Wing centre section ===== * Cut out all the CNC milled ribs using a sharp modeller’s knife or jigsaw, check them with the plan and mark the numbers on them with a soft pencil or marker. Sand as necessary to fit all spars easily. * Assemble the main spar shear webbing. Epoxy the '''W30''' wing joiner bays to the '''W29''' balsa parts. Enclose the bays; epoxy the '''W31''' plywood plates (front side of the shear webbing) and '''W32''' (rear side). Prevent the epoxy from hardening inside the bays. Put the parts together with the carbon joiner inserted, then immediately remove the joiner (do not forget cleaning the joiner using a paper tissue and rubbing alcohol before the glue sets). '''(Det. B, Fig. 3)''' * Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar® thread and soak with medium CA or epoxy. Epoxy together both two shear webbing halves reinforcing the joint with the plywood joiners '''W27''' (short one, front side) and '''W28''' (long one, rear side). '''(Det. B, Fig. 3+4+5)''' * Epoxy together the wing central ribs '''W1''' and '''W2'''. Insert 3 mm beech dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair of ribs.|type=info}} * Epoxy the plywood wing bolt plates '''W15''' and '''W18''' between the '''W1'''/'''W2''' ribs. Glue the balsa blocks '''W16''' and '''W17''' onto them (trim the '''W17''' first to match the outline of the '''W1''' ribs). Sand the W16 flush with the edge of '''W2''' ribs. '''(Fig. 6)''' * Glue the '''W26''' flap servo trays between the '''W5''' ribs.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair of assemblies.|type=info}} * You can use medium cyano for gluing most of the wing centre section parts. In that case you are supposed to put together most of the wing without glue at first. Once checked for the correct alignment, the cyano is applies to the joints from the outside. Or you can use white glue. In that case the wing is assembled step by step pinned down on the building plan protected by a thin clear plastic film. Start with pinning down the '''W9''' bottom main spar. The '''W11''', '''W12''', '''W14''' and '''W38''' parts are to be glued after the wing is removed from the building board. * '''Assembling the wing using cyano:''' Insert all ribs and riblets into the respective notches, slide on the '''W13'''/'''W19''' trailing edge. Cyano the '''W6''' ribs to the shear webbing using the 7 deg dihedral jig (the '''W7''' outer ribs are to be glued later - after the wing centre section has been paired with the wing panels). * Insert, but not glue, the '''W11''' auxiliary spar (5 mm balsa) and the '''W12''' flap leading edge (7 mm balsa). Align the top edge of these parts flush with the top edge of the ribs (you will trim the protruding part at the bottom later, once glued in place). * Cyano the '''W25''' flap horn blocks in place. * Double check the correct position of all ribs and spars. Lay the wing on the building plan. Once satisfied, apply cyano to all joints.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Be sure not to glue the '''W11''' and '''W12''' parts to each other, just to the ribs.|type=info}} * Insert and cyano the '''W10''' rear spar (6×3 mm pine stick). * Pin down the wing centre section to your building board. Butt joint the '''W9''' main spar (10×2 mm pine) to the edge of the '''W39''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W9''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W39''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Once the glue has cured, remove the wing from your building board. Glue the '''W14''' support spar in place as well as the '''W9''' bottom main spar. Use white glue to secure the '''W38''' bottom D-box sheeting in place. '''(Fig. 7)''' * Sand the front edge of the '''W39''' and '''W38''' balsa sheeting flush with the front edge of the ribs and glue the '''W8''' leading edge in place. * Glue the '''W24''' bottom cover plates of the flap servo bays between the '''W5''' ribs. Glue the '''W33''' flap root ribs in place. * Sheet the space between '''W2''' ribs from the bottom and top with '''W20a''', '''W20b''' (with the '''W40''' connector reinforcement plate glued on top), '''W21''', '''W22''' and '''W23'''. '''(Det. C)''' * Sand the sheeting flush with the edges of '''W2''' ribs. Drill the hole for the front wing bolt through the '''W39''' top sheeting. Taper the top edges of the wing bolt holes to match the supplied countersunk screws. Soak the tapered area with thin cyano to reinforce it. * Glue the '''W47''' gussets in place. * Fine sand the entire wing centre section, pay attention to the leading edge, sand the W6 ribs flush. Trial fit the flap servos. Prepare the aileron and flap extension cables. To allow threading the cables after the wing has been covered, you should put a thread through the holes in ribs secured by strips of sticky tape. Or you can glue 6 mm plastic tubes (not included in the kit). See the dotted lines on the building plan. There is a pair of the MPX8 8-pin connectors supplied in the kit suitable for the cable connection of aileron and flap servos and your receiver. The male part (with pins) is to be secured by screws into the fuselage, the female part into the wing. '''(Fig. 11+21)''' * Solder the extension cables with (+) and (-) pins shared, the remaining pins are for the servo signal leads. You can use regular servo connectors between the wing centre section and outer panels, but the sturdier MR30 connectors ([https://kavanrc.com/item/mr30-connector-1pair-145913 KAV36.131] - not supplied in the kit) are more suitable for the task. If you are going to use them, install the male part (with pins) of the connector into the wing centre section. It is probably for the best installing all the cables before the wing is covered. Do not forget double-check the correct polarity and connection first! The connectors are to be cyanoed to the wing after the covering. * Use a fine razor saw to cut the root part of flaps through the '''W13'''/'''W19''' trailing edges and between '''W33''' and '''W2''' ribs. Cut through the ribs between the '''W11''' auxiliary spar and '''W12''' flap leading edge with a sharp modeller’s knife or razor saw and remove the flaps. Bevel the leading edge in 27 degrees angle, allowing the up deflection of the flaps (flaps are hinged on the bottom side of the wing). '''(Fig. 8)''' * Trial fit the carbon wing joiners into the respective bays. There should be a tight fit, no play. If there was a significant play, put some epoxy to the appropriate area of the joiner and sand as necessary once the glue hardens. Trial fit the '''W7''' liteply outer ribs - do not glue yet. ===== Wing outer panels ===== * The wing outer panels are to be assembled in one piece. The winglets will be cut off subsequently. Build the wing panel on a flat building board. The trailing edge has to be supported so the wing tip was be 2 mm above the building board creating the required washout (the railing edge lays flat on the working surface at the '''W50''' root rib, then it is supported in at lest three points sot it was 2 mm above the building board at the '''W74''' end rib). * Assemble the main spar shear webbing. Epoxy the '''W37''' wing joiner bays to the '''W34''' balsa parts. Enclose the bays. Epoxy the '''W36''' plywood plates (front side of the shear webbing) and '''W35''' (rear side). Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar® thread and soak with medium CA or epoxy.<br>{{Note|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair.|type=info}} '''(Det. A, Fig. 3+9+5)''' * Assemble the wing panels without glue at first. Insert all ribs and riblets into the respective notches in the shear webbing. There are two 5 mm ribs '''W66''' and '''W67''' dividing the outer panel and the winglet (you can glue both two ribs square to the shear webbing and bevel both at 4 degrees angle once the winglet has been cut off, or you can one of them - preferably '''W67''') glue in 8 degrees angle using the supplied 8 deg dihedral jig). * Slide on the '''W83'''/'''W84''' trailing edges onto the ribs. Cyano the '''W50''' root ribs to the shear webbing using the 7 deg dihedral jig (the '''W49''' outer ribs are to be glued later - after the wing panels have been paired with the wing centre section). * Insert, but not glue, the '''W79''' auxiliary spar (5 mm balsa) and the '''W80''' aileron leading edge (7 mm balsa). * Cyano the '''W46''' aileron horn blocks between the '''W56''' and '''W58''' ribs (not to the '''W80''' yet). * Double check the correct position of all ribs and spars; lay the wing on the building plan. Once satisfied, pin down the wing outer panel to your building board with the trailing edge supported as described above. Apply medium cyano to all joints (do not glue the '''W79''' and '''W80''' parts yet). Insert and cyano the '''W78''' wing panel rear spar (6×3 mm pine stick) and the '''W85''' winglet rear spar (4×2 mm pine). * Butt joint the '''W77''' main spar (10×2 mm pine) to the edge of the '''W89''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W89''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W89''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Butt joint the '''W91''' winglet main spar (8×2 mm balsa) to the edge of the '''W88''' top D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa). Apply white glue to the top of the ribs, riblets and the main spar shear webbing. Insert the '''W91''' main spar into the notches in all ribs and pin it down. Then step by step pin down the '''W88''' balsa sheeting to the ribs. * Once the glue has cured, remove the outer wing panel from your building board. Align the top edge of the '''W79''' and '''W80''' flush with the top edge of the ribs and glue them to the ribs, not to each other. Trim the protruding part at the bottom side of the wing. Put the wing panel down onto your building board to check the trailing edge is '''straight and elevated by 2 mm at the wing tip'''. * Glue the '''W43''' wing tip in place. * Glue the '''W90''' support spar in place as well as the '''W77''' and '''W91''' bottom main spar. Use white glue to secure the '''W87''' and '''W86''' bottom D-box sheeting in place. * Sand the front edge of the '''W87'''/'''W89''' and '''W86'''/'''W88''' balsa sheeting flush with the front edge of the ribs and glue the '''W75''' and '''W76''' leading edges in place. * Glue the '''W48''' winglet gussets in place. Glue the '''W44''' bottom cover plates of the aileron servo bays between the '''W56''' and '''W58''' ribs. * Sand the '''W50''' root ribs flush. Trial fit the carbon wing joiners into the respective bays. There should be a tight fit, no play. Trial fit the '''W49''' liteply outer ribs - do not glue yet. * Slide the wing panel onto the carbon wing joiner together with the '''W49''' and '''W7''' liteply ribs. Slide on the wing centre section as well. Check how the ribs and wing parts are matching. Trim them as necessary to achieve a perfect fit. Once satisfied, epoxy the '''W7''' and '''W49''' ribs in place. * Fine sand the entire wing panels, pay attention to the leading edge. * Cut off the winglets. Use a fine razor saw to cut through (from the bottom) between the '''W66''' and '''W67''' ribs. If you have glued the ribs square to the main spar, now bevel both at 4 deg angle in order to achieve the required 8 degrees winglet dihedral. * Cut through the ribs between the '''W79''' auxiliary spar and '''W80''' aileron leading edge with a sharp modeller’s knife or razor saw and remove the flaps. Bevel the leading edge in 28 degrees angle allowing the down deflection of the ailerons (ailerons are hinged on the top side of the wing). * Glue the winglets to the wing panel (the butt joint protects the wing as there is a good chance the winglet breaks of in an accident - whilst the rest of the wing will remain undamaged). * Glue the '''W103''' aluminium alignment pins into holes in '''W49'''/'''W50''' ribs. '''(Fig. 13)''' * Trial fit the aileron servos. Prepare their extension cables. To allow threading the cables after the wing has been covered you should put a thread through the holes in ribs secured by strips of sticky tape. Or you can glue 6 mm plastic tubes (not included in the kit) - see the dotted lines on the building plan. You can use regular servo connectors between the wing centre section and outer panels, but the sturdier MR30 connectors ([https://kavanrc.com/item/mr30-connector-1pair-145913 KAV36.131] - not supplied in the kit) are more suitable for the task. If you are going to use them, install the female part (with sockets) of the connector into the wing panels. It is probably for the best installing all the cables before the wing is covered. Do not forget double check the correct polarity and connection first! The connectors are to be cyanoed to the wing after the covering. ===== Covering ===== * Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360–400 sandpaper and carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on film does not stick well to a dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released off the sandpaper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly). * Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent KAVAN film, Oracover®, Oralight® etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with the covering film of your choice please. ===== Hinging the control surfaces ===== * Use strips of a high quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or strips of the same iron-on film you used for the covering. Remember to apply the tape with the control surface deflected to the limit in order to get free movement of the particular control surface. ===== Aileron and flap servo installation ===== * If not done before covering, insert the aileron and flap servo extension cables in place. Install the aileron and flap servos with arm set to neutral with your radio on (to allow for the max. travels it is recommended setting the aileron servo arms offset by 15–20 degrees forward and flap servo arms by 15–20 degrees back). Cyano the '''W100''' flap horns (longer fibreglass arms without triangular opening) into the '''W25''' blocks and the '''W101''' aileron horns (shorter fibreglass arms without triangular opening) into '''W46''' blocks. Make the servo linkage: cyano one all-plastic quick link and one quick link with metal pin to the ends of Ø2 mm carbon rods (the all-plastic quick link is a sort of safety device protecting the servos on a rough landing or other mishaps). '''(Fig. 10)''' * Double check the correct operation of aileron and flap servos. Once satisfied, cyano the MPX8 and MR30 (if used) connectors in place. '''(Fig. 11+12 +13)''' * Secure the '''W41''' and '''W42''' servo covers with strips of thin double sided sticky tape.
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