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<languages/>
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== Introduction ==
{{Image frame|width=900|content=[[File:KAVAN FunStik.png|300px|KAV02.8036 KAVAN FunStik 1280mm kit]]|align=center|pos=bot|caption=<br>[https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-funstik-1280mm-kit-149671 '''KAV02.8036'''] '''KAVAN FunStik 1280mm kit'''}}
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=== Precautions ===
'''This RC model is not a toy.''' '''Use it with care and strictly following the instructions in this manual.'''
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Assemble this model following strictly these instructions. DO NOT modify or alter the model. Failure to do so, the warranty will lapse automatically. Follow the instructions in order to obtain a safe and solid model at the end of the assembly.
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Children under the age of 14 must operate the model under the supervision of an adult.
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Assure that the model is in perfect conditions before every flight, taking care that all the equipment works correctly and that the model is undamaged in its structure.
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Fly only in days with light breeze and in a safe place away from any obstacles.
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{{Note|type=error|'''Caution:''' It is your responsibility to build this model correctly. Properly install RC equipment and motor and to test the model and fly in accordance with all safety standards (and common sense) as set down in Safety Codes valid in your country. If you are just starting RC modelling, consult your local hobby shop or an experienced modeller in your local RC club to find a good instructor.}}Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe of unflyable model. Take time to build straight, true and strong. Use proper radio and other equipment that is in first class condition, properly install all the components and test their correct operation before first and any further flight. Fly the model only with competent help from a well experienced modeller if you are not already an experienced RC pilot.
{{Note|type=info|'''Note:''' We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.}}
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=== Specification ===
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|Wingspan:
|1280 mm
|-
|Length:
|1040 mm
|-
|All-up weight:
|1450–1500 g
|-
|Wing section:
|symmetrical
|-
|Controls:
|Aileron, rudder, elevator, throttle
|}
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=== Recommender power system & RC equipment ===
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|
|'''Electric'''
|'''Glow engine'''
|-
|Motor/Engine
|[https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-brushless-motor-c3542-1250-140808 KAVAN C3542–1250]
|[https://www.kavanrc.com/item/os-max-25fx-ii-21l-w-892-silencer-116357 O.S. MAX–25FX II]
|-
|Propeller
|APC 10×6E
|9×5–6"
|-
|ESC
|[https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-r-50sb-plus-stridavy-regulator-50a-sbec-153745 KAVAN R–50SB]
| -
|-
|Fuel tank
| -
|100–170 ml*
|-
|Battery
|[https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-li-po-2200mah-11-1v-40-80c-24-4wh-140754 KAVAN LiPo 11.1 V 2200 mAh 40/80C]
|NiMH 4.8 V 2000 mAh
|}
'''Servos'''
{| class="wikitable"
|
|'''Electric'''
|'''Glow engine'''
|-
|Ailerons
|2× GO–13MG
|2× GO–13MG
|-
|Elevator & rudder
|2× GO–52MG (2× GO–17MG)
|2× GO–52MG
|-
|Throttle
| -
|GO–06MG
|}
''*) 100–150 ml fuel tanks are good for regular .20–.25 engines, more powerful and "thirstier" O.S. MAX–25FX II will be happier with 150–170 ml tank.''
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=== Recommended glues ===
Unless stated otherwise, use medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue ([https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-power-ca-20g-stredni-vterinove-lepidlo-en-152585 KAV9952 KAVAN CA Medium]). D-box sheeting and wing ribs are better to be glued using a water resistant white aliphatic resin, like our [https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-white-glue-super-100g-160509 KAV9960 KAVAN White Glue] (alternatively, you can use this sort of glue for most of wood-to-wood joints). The highly loaded parts (wing roots, wing main spars, firewall etc.) should be glued together using 30 minute (or slower) epoxy (like KAV9967 Epoxy 30min) offering high strength and enough time for the correct positioning/alignment.
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=== Recommended covering material ===
The iron-on films like ORACOVER® or ORALITE® (if you wanted to keep the weight really down) will work the best for your FunStik.
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=== Tools and accessories ===
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* Very sharp modeller's knife (e.g. Excel 16001 with No. 11 blades)
* Scissors
* Electric drill with drill bits
* Wire cutter
* Long nose pliers
* Screwdrivers
* Razor saw
* Sandpaper No. 80, 100, 180, 360–400
* Needle files
* Soldering iron and solder
* Clothing pegs
* Modeller's pins
* Epoxy mixing stick and vessel
* Masking tape, clear sticky tape
* Rubbing alcohol (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
* Paper tissue or soft cloth (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
* Straightedge with scale
* Square edge
* Thin clear plastic film (for protecting the building plan)
* Permanent marker
* Modeller's sealing iron, heat gun (for covering)
* Lightweight balsa filler
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=== Model assembly ===
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==== Wing ====
1. Locate all the parts for one half of the wing. Sand to fit all plywood/Lite Ply parts, the inner leading edge, bottom and upper main spars 14 if necessary.
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2. One by one, insert all the wing ribs '''1''' to '''4''' into the Lite Ply main spar shear webbing '''15'''.
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3. Insert the inner leading edge, bottom and upper main spars '''14''' and the trailing edge shear webbing '''16''' into respective notches in ribs.
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4. Once you are satisfied with the fit and you are sure the wing structure is true and straight, glue all the parts together. We recommend using epoxy for the root ribs '''1–3''' and the main spars '''14'''.
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5. Epoxy the wing bolt reinforcements '''10''' and '''11''' in place.
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6. Use white aliphatic resin to glue the top and bottom D-box balsa sheeting '''19''' and the top and bottom trailing edge sheeting '''20'''. Be sure the wing still remains true and straight.
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7. Glue the wing centre bottom balsa sheeting '''8''' and '''9''' and the top sheeting '''9''' in place.
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8. Glue the outer leading edge '''13''', trailing edge '''17''' and corner gussets '''7''' (top and bottom) in place.
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9. Glue together the wing tip consisting of parts '''5''', '''6''', '''22''' and '''23'''.
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10. Sand the outer wing end flush with the edges of the outer rib '''4'''.
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11. Glue the wing tip assembly in place and sand flush with the wing.
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12. Glue together the aileron servo box consisting of parts '''24–27'''.
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13. Glue the aileron servo box assembly between the ribs; sand it flush with the edges of ribs. You can glue it to get bottom or top side wing access. The bottom access is preferred, but if you decided to fly your FunStik without the undercarriage (belly landing it on a grassy airfield) it is safer placing the servos and aileron linkage on the top side of the wing.
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14. Glue the aileron servo cable leading stick '''28''' in place.
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15. Glue together the two aileron parts '''18'''. Sand them in the shape once the glue has cured.
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16. Cut the notches for aileron hinges into the trailing edge and aileron. Insert the hinges into the trailing edge and aileron - do not glue yet. Be sure the aileron moves freely in the required range up and down. The hinges are to be glued after the wing and aileron has been covered.
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17. Assemble the other wing half in the same way.<br>{{Note|type=error|'''Caution:''' Keep in mind you are building LEFT and RIGHT wing halves.}}18. Epoxy the wing joiner '''12''' into one wing half.
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19. Apply epoxy to the contact areas of both two wing halves and the wing joiner. Attach the wing halves together. Double-check the correct alignment! Once the epoxy has cured, glue the top wing centre balsa sheeting '''8''' in place.
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20. Glue together the centre trailing edge parts '''21''' and to the wing. Sand them in the shape according to the building plan once the glue has cured.
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21. Carefully sand the entire wing and ailerons clean using No. 180–220 sanding paper/sanding block and then with No. 400. Attach the aileron servo extension cables to the leading sticks '''28''' using plastic cable ties or strips of clear sticky tape.
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22. The wing is ready to covering now.
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==== Tail feathers ====
23. Glue the reinforcement sticks '''69''' into the horizontal stabilizer '''67'''.
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24. Once the glue has set, sand the entire horizontal stabilizer using a sanding block with No. 180–220 sandpaper. Round the leading and trailing edges. Sand the elevator '''68''' in the same manner as well.
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25. Cut the notches for elevator hinges into the stabilizer and elevator. Insert the hinges - do not glue yet. Be sure the elevator moves freely within the required range up and down. The hinges are to be glued after the stabilizer and elevator have been covered.
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26. Glue together the fin parts '''64''' and '''65''' on a flat working surface. Glue the sticks '''71''' into the fin. Once the glue has set, sand the entire fin using a sanding block with No. 180–220 sandpaper. Round the leading and trailing edges. Sand the rudder '''66''' in the same manner as well. Prepare the rudder hinges in the same way you did with the elevator.
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27. Fine sand the entire empennage using a sanding block with No. 400 sandpaper - the tail feathers are ready to covering now.
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==== Fuselage ====
28. Prepare all the plywood/Lite Ply parts of the fuselage and the bottom balsa plate '''53'''. Sand to fit if necessary. Check if the rudder and elevator servo tray parts '''42''' and '''43''' fit the servos you intend to use. Modify the servo trail parts as needed or make new ones from 3 mm Lite Ply tailored to your servos. If you have opted for a glow engine, make sure your intended fuel tank (wrapped in 3–5 mm foam rubber to reduce fuel foaming due to motor vibrations) fits the openings in formers '''34''', '''35''' and '''38'''. Modify the formers as needed.
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29. Pin down the fuselage bottom plate '''53''' to a flat working surface protected with a sheet of thin plastic film.
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30. One by one, glue the fuselage formers and braces '''30''' to '''49''' to the bottom plate '''53'''. We recommend using epoxy for parts '''30–44'''.
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31. Epoxy both two Lite Ply sides '''51''' and top brace '''50''' in place.
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32. Now it is the right moment for preparing the engine/motor mount installation. Draw horizontal and vertical centre lines on the front face of the firewall - they will help with the correct alignment of your engine/motor mount. The recommended down thrust (-3 ° down for both electric motor and glow engine) will be achieved with a suitable insert under the top of the motor/engine mount. Usually, no side thrust is necessary.
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'''Glow engine:''' Put an engine mount suitable for your glow engine onto the firewall. Align it to the centre lines so the shaft axis (corresponds to the bottom of the engine mounting lugs/top surface of the engine mount lugs) was centred. Mark the position of the engine mount mounting holes to the firewall.
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'''Electric motor:''' Put the radial mount cross supplied with your motor (or sold separately) onto the firewall. Align it to the centre lines so the shaft axis was centred and the cross was in the "X" position and mark the mounting holes to the firewall.
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'''Glow engine & electric motor:''' Drill the holes for mounting bolts (usually M3 screws). Install corresponding blind nuts to the back side of the firewall (M3 blind nuts - e.g. [https://www.kavanrc.com/item/square-blind-nut-m3-20-pcs-111773 KAV0090/20] - not supplied in the kit) or glue regular hex nuts pressed into small scraps of plywood in there.
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33. '''Glow engine:''' Install the engine mount and your motor with silencer. Mark the position for the throttle push rod outer tube opposite to the carburettor lever on the firewall and drill 3 mm hole. Insert your fuel tank into the fuselage in order to check it could be placed in the correct position in relation to the needle-valve/carburettor rotor as recommended by the manufacturer of your engine.
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'''Electric motor:''' Install your motor and mark the position of an opening for the motor cables in the firewall. Cut the hole.
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34.  Glue the fuselage longerons '''60''' in place.
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35. Sand the fuselage sides and glue balsa sides '''52''' in place (white glue recommended).
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36. Glue the elevator and rudder push rod outer tubes in place.
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37. Glue the tail tip '''63''' in place and then, one by one, the top fuselage balsa sheeting '''59''' (cross-grain).
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38. Glue the trailing edge plate '''58''' in place, the undercarriage plate '''72''' and the top nose sheeting '''54''' in place. Carefully sand the entire fuselage including the fuel tank/battery hatch clean using No. 180–220 sanding paper/sanding block and then with No. 400. The fuselage is ready to covering now.
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39. Glue together the tail skid consisting of parts '''61''' and '''62.''' Sand and cover it.
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==== Covering ====
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* Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360–400 sandpaper and carefully vacuum all the dust (The iron-on film does not stick well to a dusty surface. The dust also contains hard grains released off the sandpaper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).
* Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent Oracover, Oralite etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with the covering film of your choice please.
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==== Final assembly ====
40. Cut the covering film over the opening for the fuel tank/battery hatch '''55''' in the top nose sheeting '''54'''. Glue the pin '''56''' along the front bottom edge of the hatch and install the hatch lock '''57'''.
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41. '''Glow engine:''' Apply a coat of fuel-proof dope or epoxy (thinned with epoxy paint/dope thinner) to the entire fuel tank compartment from the firewall to the former '''38''' and the bottom side of the hatch '''55'''. Apply a fuel-proofing coat to the front side of the firewall as well. Apply the dope/epoxy over the edges of the covering film to prevent fuel or exhaust fumes getting "under the skin".
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42. Epoxy the control surface hinges. Be sure the glue does not get into the hinges hindering the control surface movement. Remove any excessive epoxy with a paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol immediately.
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43. Cut the covering film over the notches for the fin and horizontal stabilizer in the fuselage. Epoxy the fin and stabilizer in place. Remove any excessive epoxy with a paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol immediately. Double check the fin was square to the horizontal stabilizer.
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44. Epoxy the tail skid in place.
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45. Glue the wing bolt captive nuts into the fuselage braces '''48''' & '''49'''.
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46. Assemble the main undercarriage and secure it with two M4×20 mm bolts to the fuselage.
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47. '''Glow engine:''' Install the engine mount and your engine with silencer. Insert and glue the throttle push rod outer tube into the fuselage. Install the throttle servo into the servo tray/switch holder '''70''' and glue the tray into the fuselage ensuring free movement of the throttle push rod. You can fit the receiver battery switch to the tray '''70''' (flipped by a piece of 0.8 mm piano wire from the outside of fuselage - not supplied in the kit). Assemble the fuel tank and test it is tight and secure. Install the fuel tank wrapped in thin rubber foam into the fuselage. Hook up all the tubings - use a pressurized fuel system; do not forget a good fuel filter - like [https://www.kavanrc.com/item/aluminum-fuel-filter-1-pcs-109167 KAVAN KAV0019] - between the tank and carburettor.
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48. '''Electric motor:''' Install your motor with the radial mount, thread the motor cables into the fuselage. Connect the ESC (secure it with a strip of hook and loop tape into the fuselage).
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49. Install your receiver, servos and receiver resp. flight battery. Turn your radio on and set neutral positions of servos. Insert the Z-bend on one end of the rudder, elevator and throttle push rod into the corresponding servo arms, thread the push rods into the respective outer tubes, attach the arms to the servos and secure them with screws. Slide and cyano plastic tubings on the aileron push rods as a means of stiffening. Insert the Z-bends into aileron servo arms.
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50. Secure the control surfaces using strips of masking tape or other suitable means in the neutral (centre) position. Tack fit the control horns with a piece of thin double sided sticky tape to the respective control surfaces so the holes for pushrod in the horns were in line with the hinge pins. Mark the correct length of the push rods and make Z-bends on them. Thread the horns on the Z-bends and secure the horns to the control surfaces with screws. Alternatively you can install push rod connectors (e.g. [https://www.kavanrc.com/item/threaded-pushrod-connector-m2-d-1-25mm-10-pcs-108746 KAVAN KAV3060A/10] - not supplied in the kit) to the servo arms that will allow precise setting of the control linkage any time.
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51. '''Glow engine:''' Install the throttle push rod ensuring free movement over the entire range of the carburettor from fully closed to fully open position. We recommend fitting a push rod connector to the throttle servo arm - it will make setting up much easier.
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=== RC set installation and preflight check ===
Referring to the instruction manual of your radio carefully hook up the on-board electronics. Once everything has been correctly connected, turn on your transmitter and plug in the flight (receiver) pack. Check the neutral positions and throws of all control surfaces. If you needed to make the control surface throws smaller, simply move the pushrod closer to the centre on the servo arm or move it far from the control surface on the control horn. And vice versa.
{| class="wikitable"
| rowspan="2" |'''Recommended throws'''
| colspan="2" |'''Low rate'''
| colspan="2" |'''High rate'''
|-
|'''Rate'''
|'''Expo'''
|'''Rate'''
|'''Expo'''
|-
|Ailerons
|± 5 mm
|30–40 %
|± 7 mm
|40–50 %
|-
|Elevator
|± 7 mm
|30–40 %
|± 10 mm
|40–50 %
|-
|Rudder
|± 11 mm
|30–40 %
|± 15 mm
|50 %
|}
The "Low rate" recommended control surface throws are suitable for a less skilled pilot and classic pattern aerobatics. The "High rate" setting is for 3D aerobatics and skilled pilots.
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'''Electric:''' Check the direction of rotation of the propeller. If it was incorrect, simply swap two of the three wires between the ESC and motor or program the ESC (refer to the ESC manual).
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'''Glow engine:''' If you install a brand new engine, you will have to run-in the engine following its instruction manual first. Before take off check the throttle servo function; double-check the idle and full throttle positions are correct. Be sure you can stop the engine by pulling the throttle stick and throttle trim all the way down or using the Throttle Cut function on your radio. Check the correct position of the centre of gravity (CG) – '''marked "'''[[File:CG.svg|frameless|17x17px]]'''"''' on the building plan. Adjust the CG position by moving the flight resp. receiver pack - if you cannot reach the recommended position, do not hesitate to add an appropriate amount of lead to the nose or tail. An extra couple of grams won't spoil the flying characteristics - but the incorrect CG position is a killer. Fully charge your flight pack and transmitter batteries, check the proper function of your radio and perform the range check of your radio according to its instruction manual. The range has to be almost the same with the motor off and at full throttle (no more than 10 % decrease is acceptable). DO NOT try to fly unless the range check is 100 % successful.
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=== Flying ===
The test flying and fine tuning is pretty much straightforward, there will be no surprise for a medium-advanced pilot that is supposed to fly this model.
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