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=== Introduction ===
A two-meter thermal glider is one of the most rewarding machines in a recreational modeller's hangar. Nothing compares to peaceful relaxing flights in mild conditions, circling in the thermals under the clouds, quietly flying in the early evening peace when you can sit and watch your elegant model fly almost on its own… Nowadays, two-meter models with controlled rudder, elevator and airbrake and taking off with the help of rubber have their special competition category, where it's about flying together with similarly tuned modellers. And there's the F5-RES category for two-meter motorised gliders as well.
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The "Two-meter" kits are also ideal for anyone who wants to build the models themselves, in a classic way of balsa, plywood and spruce beams. The build is nice and quick, and there's not much to it - MIRAI is still a pretty simple model in terms of construction, but it's not for complete beginners.
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{{Image frame|width=900|content=[[File:KAVAN Mirai - glider.png|300px|KAV02.8021 KAVAN Mirai - glider]][[File:KAVAN Mirai - motor.png|300px|KAV02.8021 KAVAN Mirai - motorised glider]]|align=center|pos=bot|caption=<br>[https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-mirai-glider-kit-140139 '''KAV02.8021'''] '''KAVAN Mirai'''}}
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=== Precautions ===
'''This RC model is not a toy. Use it with care and strictly follow the instructions in this manual.'''
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Assemble this model following strictly these instructions. DO NOT modify or alter the model. Failure to do so, the warranty will lapse automatically. Follow the instructions to obtain a safe and solid model at the end of the assembly.
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Children under the age of 14 must operate the model under the supervision of an adult.
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Assure that the model is in perfect condition before every flight, taking care that all the equipment works correctly and that the model is undamaged in its structure.
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Fly only on days with a light breeze and in a safe place away from any obstacles.
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The model you build and fly is not a toy! Although it may seem light and slow in flight, it is capable of causing injury or other damage if mistreated. It is up to you whether you build the model properly, fly properly and continue to fly in accordance with common practice and rules (and common sense). If you are just getting started with aircraft models, ask for advice from your model shop or an experienced modeller at your local modelling club to find a good instructor.
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You must build the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. Take time to build straight, true and strong. Use proper radio and other equipment that is in first-class condition, properly install all the components and test their correct operation before first and any further flight. Fly the model only with competent help from a well-experienced modeller if you are not already an experienced RC pilot. {{Note|'''Note:''' We, as a kit manufacturer, can guarantee you a premium quality kit with detailed instructions, but flight characteristics and performance depend entirely on how you complete the model. Since we have no control over how you complete and operate the model, we cannot (and cannot be assumed) assume any responsibility for any damage caused or related to the operation of your completed model.|type=info}}
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=== Specification ===
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; width: 100%;"
|'''Wingspan'''
|1995 mm
|-
|'''Length'''
|1210 mm
|-
|'''All–up weight'''
|420 g plus
|-
|'''Wing section'''
|Special RES HB
|-
|'''CG position'''
|80 mm
|-
|'''Controls'''
|Rudder, elevator, airbrake, (motor)
|}
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=== Recommended RC equipment ===
* Rudder and elevator servo: Hitec HS-53 2×
* Spoiler servo: Hitec HS-65MG, Dymond D47
* Receiver battery: Panasonic Eneloop AAA 800mAh 4.8 V pack
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=== Recommended glues ===
Unless stated otherwise, use medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-pro-ca-medium-20g-154475 KAV56.9974]). D-box sheeting and wing ribs are better glued using a water-resistant white aliphatic resin, like our [https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-white-glue-super-100g-160509 KAV56.9960]/[https://kavanrc.com/en/item/kavan-white-glue-super-200g-160510 KAV56.9961] KAVAN White Glue (alternatively, you can use this sort of glue for most of the wood-to-wood joints). The highly loaded parts (wing roots, wing main spars, firewall etc.) should be glued together using 30-minute (or slower) epoxy (like KAV9967 Epoxy 30min) offering high strength and enough time for the correct positioning.
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=== Tools and accessories ===
* Very sharp precision knife ([https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-knife-with-cutting-mat-156305 KAV66.770] with no. 11 blades)
* Scissors
* Electric drill with drill bits
* Wire cutter
* Long nose pliers
* Screwdrivers
* Razor saw
* Sandpaper No. 80, 100, 180, 360–400
* Needle files
* Soldering iron and solder
* Clothing pegs
* Modeller's pins ([https://kavanrc.com/item/modeller-s-pins-50pcs-153803 KAV66.0355])
* Epoxy mixing stick and vessel
* Masking tape, clear sticky tape
* Rubbing alcohol (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
* Paper tissue or soft cloth (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
* Straightedge with scale
* Square edge
* Thin clear plastic film (for protecting the building plan)
* Permanent marker
* Modeller’s sealing iron, heat gun (for covering)
* Lightweight balsa filler
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=== Model assembly ===
==== Tail surfaces ====
''Everything has been designed extremely light; yet strong enough. The tail feathers are removable for easy transport/storage.''
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* Trial fit the parts of the horizontal stabilizer, elevator, fin and rudder – no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain the perfect fit. '''(Fig. 1)'''
* Please note the opening for the fin fixing plate '''R10''' is slightly offset to the left in '''R13''','''T4''' and '''T8''' parts. You can turn the parts upside down having the opening offset to the right; but whatever you choose, the offset of all three parts HAS TO MATCH.
* Tack glue the plastic tubes '''R9''' into the fin with a few drops of CA.
* Roughen the surface of the 3×0.5mm '''R12''' carbon spar using No. 150 sandpaper and glue it with medium CA to the trailing edge of the fin. Glue the '''T9''' reinforcement strip to the centre part of the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer in the same way.
* Glue together all the balsa parts using medium CA or aliphatic resin.
* Glue the fin root rib '''R13''' (1.2mm plywood). Do not forget the opening for the '''R10''' fin fixing plate is supposed to be offset to the left. Use the '''R11''' carbon rods inserted into the '''R9''' tubes as alignment pins for the '''R13''' root rib. Double-check that the root rib is straight and square to the fin. Take care the '''R11''' are not glued into the fin in this step. '''(Fig. 2)'''
* Put the tail surfaces aside for now. They will be finished after the tailplane seat is installed to the tail boom.
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==== Fuselage (glider version) ====
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* Trial fit the parts of the fuselage– no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain the perfect fit. '''(Fig. 3)'''
* Glue the Lite Ply reinforcement plates '''F3''' and '''F5L''' to the inner side of the '''F17L''' fuselage side (with the large opening for the '''F16''' hatch). Glue the plates '''F3''' and '''F5R''' to the inner side of the '''F17R''' fuselage side (without the hatch opening). '''(Fig. 4)'''
* Glue the '''F6''' locking plate to the front of the '''F16''' hatch; the locking plate has to match the position of a notch in the '''F5L''' reinforcement plate and the hatch matched the opening in the '''F17L''' fuselage side. The pair of '''F21''' magnets will be epoxied into the '''F16''' hatch and '''F5L''' plate only after the fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron might demagnetize the magnets. '''(Fig. 14)'''
* Epoxy together the tail boom holder consisting of the Lite Ply part '''F13''' and plywood parts '''F10''' and '''F14'''. Attach the '''F9''' wing bolt plate with the M5 aluminium captive nut epoxied in place. Insert the entire assembly of the tail boom holder between the fuselage sides. Now you can start gluing the fuselage from the rear to the nose. '''(Fig. 6)'''
* Glue together the nose part of the fuselage; do not forget bevelling the edges of the fuselage formers and '''F18''' and '''F19''' Lite Ply braces as required. '''(Fig. 9)'''
* Epoxy the '''F9''' wing bolt plate and the tail boom holder assembly in place.
* Bevel the '''F1''' nose blocks and glue in place.
* Partially cut (ca 1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the front edge of the '''F2''' fuselage former and glue them to the '''F1''' blocks (the cut line is to be soaked with thin CA before the final sanding).
* Epoxy the tow hook plate '''F15''' in place. Glue the '''F20''' carbon ballast tube into the holes in '''F7''' and '''F8''' formers. '''(Fig. 10)'''
* Glue the upper and lower 2.5 mm balsa sheeting to the fuselage. Slide the tail boom tube '''F22''' onto the tail boom holder – do not glue yet. Fit and glue the balsa fairing plates '''F11''' and '''F12''' in place. Carefully match all the parts so the tail boom had a tight fit but remained still easily detachable. '''(Fig. 11) (Fig. 12)'''
* Sand the entire front part of the fuselage; take care that all the parts, including the '''F11'''/'''F12''' fairing, create a smooth transition between the fuselage and the tail boom. '''(Fig. 14)'''
* Insert the '''R11''' carbon rods into the pre-drilled holes in the tail boom; glue them in place. The bottom ends of the rods should stick out by 1–2 mm from the tail boom (the upper side of the tail boom is slightly flattened in order to accommodate the tailplane seat). Slide the '''T8''' tailplane seat onto the '''R11''' rods and epoxy it to the tail boom square to the rods. '''(Fig. 15)'''
* Epoxy the M3 aluminium captive nut '''R16''' to the pre-drilled hole on the right side of the tail boom.
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==== Fuselage (electric version) ====
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* The building sequence of the electric version fuselage is basically the same as with the glider version except for the firewall, nose and servo tray; also the '''F20''' ballast tube is not to be used.
* Instead of Lite Ply '''F3''' reinforcement plates, glue the balsa triangular sticks E4 along the edges of fuselage sides '''F17L''' and '''F17R'''. '''(Fig. 5)''' '''(Fig 7)'''
* Epoxy the '''E3''' servo tray behind the '''F7''' fuselage former.
* Epoxy the firewall '''E2''' in place. Before you epoxy the firewall in, make sure the openings and holes in the firewall match your motor – make any changes as necessary or cut a new firewall to match your motor perfectly.
* Once the bottom and upper sheeting is in place cut the fuselage sides flush with the front edge of the '''E2''' firewall. Temporarily install your motor and use the spinner as a jig to align the '''E1''' plywood ring; once satisfied, epoxy it in place. Sand the nose to the desired shape matching your spinner. '''(Fig. 9)''' '''(Fig. 10)'''
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==== Tail surfaces - continued ====
* Insert the '''R10''' fibreglass fin fixing plate into the opening in the fin. Do not glue yet! '''(Fig. 16)'''
* Slide the horizontal stabilizer and fin onto the '''R11''' carbon rods. Screw in the M3 nylon bolt through the hole in the tail boom, '''R10''' plate into the '''F16''' nut. Align the '''R10''' late flush with the left side of the fin. Push the fin to the stabilizer and fuselage and tack glue the '''R10''' plate to the fin with a couple of CA drops. '''(Fig. 17) (Fig. 18)'''
* Remove the fin, cyano the '''R10''' plate thoroughly to the fin; fill the recess on the right side using the '''R14''' 1.5 mm balsa filler. Sand the entire fin smooth. '''(Fig. 19)'''
* The rudder and elevator horns '''R16''' and '''T10''' as well as the '''R8''' skid will be glued in later after the tail surfaces are covered.
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==== Wing ====
===== Wing centre section =====
* Epoxy together the wing central ribs '''W3''' and '''W4'''; insert the 3mm beech dowels into the holes to obtain the correct match.<br>{{Note|type=info|'''Note:''' Make a left and right pair of ribs. '''(Fig. 20)'''}}
* Epoxy the '''W10''' wing fixing bolt plate between the central ribs. '''(Fig. 21)'''
* Epoxy together the parts of the '''W13''' main spar shear webbing; the short 0.8 mm ply '''W11''' joiner (with a hole in the centre) to the front side, the '''W12''' long joiner to the rear side. '''(Fig. 22)''' '''(Fig. 23)'''
* Make bays for '''P32''' wing carbon joiners; epoxy together the '''W14''' front (shorter) 0.8 mm ply plate, 5 mm ply central plate '''W15''' and rear 0.8 mm ply (longer, slanted edge) '''W16''' plate. Prevent the epoxy hardening inside the bays – put the parts together with the '''P32''' carbon joiner inserted, then immediately remove the joiner (do not forget to clean the joiner using paper tissue and rubbing alcohol before the glue sets). '''(Fig. 24)'''
* Slide all ribs onto the mains spar shear webbing (no glue yet!). Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar thread and soak with medium CA. '''(Fig. 25)''' '''(Fig. 26)'''
* Insert the '''W27''' rear spar, trial fit the '''W30''' leading and '''W17''' trailing edges. Sand to fit if necessary. Once satisfied with the fit, glue all the parts of the wing centre section with medium cyano over the building plan protected with a sheet of thin clear plastic film (you might find better glueing ribs to the '''W13''' main spar shear webbing with an aliphatic resin).
* Edge glue together the '''W24''' upper D-box sheeting (1.5 mm balsa) and the '''W26''' upper 8×2 mm spruce stick main spar; once cured glue it to the wing using aliphatic resin. Use a hardwood stick positioned along the leading edge to push the balsa sheeting straight and even to the '''W30''' leading edge.
* Glue the '''W26''' lower 8×2 mm spruce stick main spar in place.
* Bevel both two '''R5''' end ribs of the wing centre section using the supplied 7° dihedral jig. Then glue the '''W6''' 3 mm Lite Ply end ribs. You might find it easier doing it later; with the '''P32''' joiners inserted and finished wing outer panels attached.
* Glue the '''W21''' airbrake frame to the upper side of the wing; insert and glue the airbrake bay reinforcement plate '''W20''' (balsa 1.5 mm) into '''W5''', '''W7''' and '''W8''' ribs. Cyano the '''W34''' fibreglass bushings for the airbrake torsion bar onto '''W3/W4''' and '''W7''' ribs. Insert the 3 mm carbon torsion bar '''W37''' into the bushings. Do not forget to slide the '''W36''' control horn in the centre. Do not glue yet! The control horn and airbrake levers are to be glued in place once the wing is covered and the servo and airbrakes fitter (refer to '''Det. C''').
* Glue the '''W29''' magnet holders to the bottom side of '''W21''' airbrake frames. The pairs of '''W33''' magnets will be epoxied into the holders '''W29''' and airbrakes '''W22''' and '''W23''' only after the wing is covered.
* Glue the 1.5 mm balsa '''W28''' upper centre sheeting (supplied in 2 pieces) and the bottom '''W19''' sheeting in place over the '''W3''' ribs.
* Do not glue the '''W25''' airbrake servo hatch; it will remain removable for easy access to the servo. You can secure it using e.g. small wood screw (not supplied in the kit) to the 5 mm plywood holders '''W32'''. Do not forget to cut the opening for the wing fixing bolt into the balsa sheeting.
* Epoxy the '''W1''' central riblet with the wing alignment pin sandwiched between two '''W2''' riblets in place. Glue the 1.5 mm front bottom sheeting '''W18''' between the '''W3/W4''' ribs.
* Sand to fit and glue the 2.5 mm balsa gussets '''W38''' in place. '''(Fig. 27–31)'''
* Fine sand the entire wing centre section (incl. the airbrake).
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===== Wing outer panels (Fig. 32–36) =====
* The wing outer panels are to be constructed in the same manner as the wing centre section; the main difference is that the inner part and the outer winglet are built as one part on a flat surface. Once the structure is finished, you will cut it between the end/root ribs; then bevel to obtain the correct dihedral and glue together.
* Glue together both two wing outer panels over the building plan protected with a sheet of thin clear plastic film (remember – you are building left and right wing panels!). Please note the inner spars are made of spruce sticks '''P33''' resp. '''P23''', whilst the winglet spars are made of balsa sticks '''(P34''' and '''P31)'''.
* Glue the top D-box sheeting '''P27''' and '''P28''' in the same manner as the wing centre sheeting '''W24'''.
* Sand the wing tip flat, glue the '''P17''' winglet fairing in place and bevel it to the required 35° angle. Insert the '''P29''' plywood joiner and sand the '''P18''' wing tip to fit. Once satisfied glue the joiner and wing tip in place.
* Sand to fit and glue the 2.5 mm balsa gussets '''P33''' and the '''P34''' diagonal braces made of 5×3 mm spruce stick in place.
* Cut off the outer winglets between the end ribs '''P10''' and '''P11'''; bevel the '''P11''' ribs using the supplied 7° dihedral jig. Epoxy the wing panels and winglets together.
* Bevel the '''P2''' root ribs of the wing outer panels using the supplied 7° dihedral jig. Trial fit the '''P32''' carbon wing joiner into the respective bays; there should be a tight fit, no play. If there is a significant play, put some epoxy in to appropriate area of the joiner and sand as necessary once the glue hardens.
* Glue the 3 mm Lite Ply '''P1''' root ribs with 3 mm beech alignment pins '''P30''' in place.
* Fine sand the entire wing's outer panels.
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==== Covering ====
* Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360–400 sandpaper and carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on film does not stick well to a dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released off the sandpaper capable of ruining the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).
* Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent Oracover, Oralite etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with the covering film of your choice please.
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==== Hinging the control surfaces ====
* Use strips of high-quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or strips of the same iron-on film you used for the covering. Remember to apply the tape with the control surface deflected to the limit in order to get free movement of the particular control surface.
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==== Pushrod installation ====
* Tack glue the pushrod tubes to the 1.5 mm balsa pushrod tube holder with three plywood formers supplied in the kit. Do not shorten the tubes yet – they will have to go all the way into the front part of the fuselage. '''(Fig. 37)'''
* The elevator push rod tube goes all the way through the tail boom tube; carefully drill and cut the exit opening for the rudder push rod tube in the tail boom. '''(Fig. 38)'''
* Insert the balsa holder with pushrod tubes into the tail boom; align with the front part of the fuselage. Once satisfied tack glue the holder to the tail boom tube.
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==== Tail boom installation ====
* Attach the wing centre section to the fuselage and secure it with the M5 nylon bolt. Attach and secure the tail surfaces to the tail boom with the push rod tubes installed in their holder (the holder prevents the tubes from getting loose and keeps any unwanted play in the elevator and rudder linkage next to zero). Slide the tail boom onto the holder on the fuselage front part. Thread the push rod tubes through the holes in '''F10''', '''F8''' and '''F7''' formers.
* Check that the fuselage is straight-looking from above; align the wing and the horizontal tailplane with their trailing edges parallel. Once satisfied use 30min epoxy to secure the tail boom in place. Double-check the correct alignment of the wing, fuselage and tailplane before the glue hardens.
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==== Servo installation ====
===== Rudder and elevator servos installation =====
* The rudder and elevator servos are to be installed into their servo tray '''F23''' under the '''F16''' hatch (glider) or into the '''E3''' servo tray under the wing (electric version). Cyano the pushrod tubes into the fuselage formers; you can use the supplied fibreglass pushrod holders (Bag 1) to secure the ends of the tubes.
* Solder the M2 brass threaded couplers to one end of the piano wire pushrods and attach the M2 ball links.
* Alternatively you can use a closed loop of a Kevlar thread (not supplied in the kit) to hook the rudder – it might save some weight. In that case, you will need to install just one pushrod for the elevator.
* Fit the tail surfaces to the fuselage; insert the control horns into the rudder and elevator – do not glue yet. Set the servos in a neutral position with your radio on and mark the correct length of the push rod wires. Make a "Z" bend on the end of the pushrod and fit it to the rudder and elevator horns. Check once again and only then cyano the control horns in place. Do not forget to glue the end of the elevator push rod tube to the fuselage.
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===== Spoiler servo installation =====
* The spoiler servo is to be installed using a strip of double-sided foam tape (not supplied in the kit) to the '''W28''' balsa sheeting. First, apply thinned epoxy or thin cyano to the inner surface of the '''W28''' sheeting in order to be sure the double-sided foam tape will stick. Reinforce the inner surface of the '''W22''' and '''W23''' airbrakes in the same manner.
* Epoxy the '''W33''' magnets into the holes in '''W22''' and '''W23''' airbrakes and '''W29''' holders on the airbrake frames. Please check the polarity of the magnets first – they must attract each other. '''(Fig. 30) (Fig. 31)'''
* Refer to the '''Det. C''' on the building plan during the final airbrake servo installation. Link the servo horn and the '''W36''' torsion bar lever with two ball links joined together with an M2 threaded rod (saw off the head of the supplied M2×10 mm screw).
* Once you check the servo can move freely within the required range, cyano the '''W36''' lever to the '''W37''' carbon torsion bar. '''(Fig. 39)'''
* With your radio on, set the airbrake servo to the "airbrake fully extended" position. One at a time set the '''W22''' and '''W23''' airbrakes in the fully extended position (-24 mm), push the corresponding lever '''W35''' to the airbrake and secure with a small drop of cyano to the '''W37''' torsion bar. Take care the position of both airbrakes is exactly the same! Once satisfied, secure the joints of '''W35''' and '''W36''' levers with the '''W37''' torsion bar using a sparse amount of epoxy.
* Finally, cut an opening into the '''W25''' hatch to allow free movement of the airbrake servo arm (if necessary) and secure it to the '''W32''' holders. '''(Fig. 40)'''
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==== Wing root ribs ====
* Glue the pairs of '''W31''' magnets using 5 min epoxy into the openings in '''W6''' and '''P1''' ribs. Please check the polarity of the magnets first – they must attract each other.
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==== Tow hook (glider) ====
* Install the tow hook to the pre-drilled holes in the '''F15''' plate.
* Keep the recommender CG position 78–82 mm behind the wing leading edge.
* Set the tow hook 10 mm in front of the CG for the first flight.
* You have to loosen the front screw in order to move the tow hook.
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==== Power system installation (electric version) ====
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* Fit your motor using appropriate screws to the firewall; secure the ESC and power pack using Velcro tape into the cockpit. With your RC set on test whether the motor rotates in the correct direction (counterclockwise when looking from the front) If this is not the case, change the setting of your ESC or swap any two of the three cables between the motor and ESC. Fit a 30mm spinner with blades corresponding to your motor and battery set-up.
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==== Recommended control surface throw, CG position ====
* CG Position: 78–82 mm
* Rudder: ±60 mm
* Elevator: ±10 mm
* Spoiler: -24 mm
* Brake → Elevator mix: -2 mm elevator at full airbrake
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=== Flying ===
Be sure you are using fully charged batteries. Now (and before any further flight again) check the correct function of the whole radio equipment, motor and moving of control surfaces. Be sure any part of flight equipment cannot move during flight. We strongly recommend making a range check (see your radio instruction manual for details).
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'''The first flight:''' Wait for a calm day. Fly only on a safe site such as an RC club flying field. Glider will be very happy on your favourite slope on a calm day. The very light lift will allow perfect fine trimming out.
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'''Glider:''' Switch your transmitter and then the receiver on and check all the working systems one more. Facing INTO the wind hold your transmitter in one hand; grip the model in the other hand near the centre of gravity. Hold it at head level and give the model a fairly powerful push exactly into the wind; wings level, nose slightly down. Your model should now glide in a long, flat and straight path without needing any help from you. Use the controls gently if necessary, and adjust the trim tabs until your MIRAI glides the above-described way. Now check the position of control surfaces; set the length of pushrods to bring back trim tabs on your transmitter to the neutral position if necessary (we strongly recommend doing it in any way). Check again the gliding of your MIRAI. Now you are ready to make your first bungee launch. Always use a bungee set appropriate to the size (100–150 m) and weight of your model!
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'''Electric version:''' Switch your transmitter and then the receiver on and check all the working systems once again. Launch your MIRAI with a throttle fully open INTO the wind. During climbing be gentle on the controls; try to keep the model flying into the wind until you have about 100–150 metres of altitude. Climb slowly - too steep climbing may cause the model will stall and fall to the ground. You are at 150 metres - this is time to trim out your MIRAI at full power. After everything is OK - it means the model at approx. 50–60% of full throttle flies straight without turning, descending or ascending (if your MIRAI already tends to ascend you will have to increase motor down thrust), turn the motor off and test MIRAI’s gliding characteristics. Keep your MIRAI into the wind and observe its flight. If turns without power right (although under power it kept the straight direction) it will be necessary to increase the motor's right side thrust and vice versa. If descends too much without power (although under power it kept the level flight) you will have to increase motor down thrust (assuming the centre of gravity is correct - check it after landing).
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'''Final fine-tuning:''' During the next flights trim out your MIRAI to find the optimal setting - safe climbing and good gliding. You might find it useful to program a spoiler → elevator mix (if your radio allows) that will eliminate the nose pitching when the spoiler is deployed. In general, the CG position should be located between 78–82 mm behind the wing leading edge. By moving the CG back you get better gliding performance whilst reducing the stability. It makes your model more sensitive to controls and increases the model reaction on thermal. The back CG position makes the model more difficult to fly and requires more attention from you, while a nose-heavy model is easier to fly but you will lack the performance. We recommend starting with the CG at 78 mm behind the leading edge. Beyond 82 mm the increasing lack of stability prevails over the gain of gliding performance. On windy days, you can improve the penetration of the glider version by putting additional ballast into the '''F20''' ballast tube.
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=== Parts list ===
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; width: 100%;"
! colspan="4" |'''Main parts'''
|-
!'''Part'''
!'''Quantity'''
!'''Building plan no.'''
!'''Material'''
|-
|Building plan 1:1
|1
|
|
|-
|Instruction manual
|1
|
|
|-
|Sheet of stickers
|1
|
|
|-
|Pushrod set
|2
|
|Plastic tube + 0.8 mm piano wire
|-
|Tail boom
|1
|F22
|Carbon tube Ø18×10 mm
|-
|Pushrod holder + formers
|1+1
|
|Balsa 1.5 mm + 0.8 mm Plywood
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 1 - small parts'''
|-
|Adjustable tow hook w/ M3 socket screw
|1
|
|Fibreglass + metal
|-
|Magnet
|6
|F21, W33
|Neodymium 3×3 mm
|-
|Magnet
|4
|W31
|Neodymium 10×3 mm
|-
|Wing bolt M5
|1
|
|Nylon
|-
|Captive nut M5
|1
|
|Aluminium
|-
|Rudder horn
|2
|V11
|Fibreglass 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel alignment pin
|4
|P30
|Beech dowel Ø3 mm
|-
|Fuselage corner radius template
|1
|
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Nose shape template
|1
|
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Dihedral jig 7 deg
|1
|
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Airbrake magnet holder
|2
|W29
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Fuselage hatch lock
|1
|F6
|
|-
|Kevlar thread
|1
|
|
|-
|Carbon rod
|4
|v11
|Carbon rod Ø2 mm
|-
|Ruddervator servo tray
|1
|F23
|
|-
|Airbrake lever set
|1
|W34+W35+W36
|Fibreglass plate 1.5 mm
|-
|V-tail seat with pin
|1+1
|W8L/R, W9
|Lite Ply 3 mm, steel Ø1.5 mm
|-
|Ball link short M2
|4
|
|
|-
|Threaded coupler M2
|2
|
|Brass M2/0,8 mm
|-
|Airbrake link bolt M2
|1
|
|M2×10 mm machine screw
|-
|Tail skid
|1
|V12
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 2'''
|-
|Nose block
|2
|F1
|Balsa 10 mm
|-
|Towhook plate
|1
|F15
|Plywood 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing bolt plate
|1
|F9
|Plywood 3 mm
|-
|Fuselage former
|1
|F7
|Plywood 3 mm
|-
|Fuselage former
|1+1+1
|F2, F8, F9
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Horizontal tail boom holder
|1
|F13
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Vertical tail boom holder
|1
|F14
|Plywood 3 mm
|-
|Fuselage cross-brace
|3
|F18, F19
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 3'''
|-
|Wing rib
|2
|W3
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Wing rib
|4
|W6, P1
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Wing rib
|2
|W4
|Plywood 0.8 mm
|-
|Main spar shear webbing joiner short
|1
|W11
|Plywood 0.8 mm
|-
|Main spar shear webbing joiner long
|1
|W12
|Plywood 0.8 mm
|-
|Wing joiner bay plate
|2+2+2+2
|W14, W16, P25, P26
|Plywood 0.8 mm
|-
|Riblet with wing alignment pin
|1
|W1
|Plywood 3 mm
|-
|Riblet
|2
|W2
|Plywood 0.8 mm
|-
|Wing bolt plate
|1
|W10
|Plywood 2 mm
|-
|Wing joiner bay
|2+2
|W15, P22
|Plywood 5 mm
|-
|Wing centre sheeting
|1+1+1+1
|W18, W19, W28a, W28b
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Airbrake bay reinforcement plate
|2
|W20
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Airbrake servo hatch
|1
|W25
|Plywood 1.2 mm
|-
|Winglet joiner
|2
|P29
|Plywood 1.5 mm
|-
|Airbrake servo hatch holder
|2
|W32
|Plywood 5 mm
|-
|Wing joiner 2 pieces
|2
|P32
|Carbon
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 4 - V-tail'''
|-
|Stabilizer
|2
|V1L/R
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Ruddervator
|2
|V2
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Stabilizer tip
|2
|V3
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Stabilizer ribs
|2+2+2
|V5, V6, V7
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Carbon stabilizer reinforcement
|2
|V10
|Carbon 0.5×3 mm
|-
|Plastic tube
|4
|V14
|Plastic tube Ø3 mm
|-
|Stabilizer root rib
|1+1
|V4L/R
|Plywood 1.2 mm
|-
|Stabilizer lock
|2
|V13
|Fibreglass 1.5 mm
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 5'''
|-
|Firewall
|1
|E2
|Plywood 3 mm
|-
|Balsa triangle stock
|4
|E4
|Balsa 8×8 mm
|-
|Spinner ring
|1
|E1
|Plywood 1.2 mm
|-
|Servo tray electric
|1
|E3
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Battery tray
|1
|E5
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Fuselage cross-brace
|3
|F18, F19
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 6'''
|-
|Wing centre section rib
|6
|W7
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing centre section rib
|2
|W8
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing centre section rib
|4
|W9
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel rib set
|2 each
|P3–P9, P12–P15
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel root rib
|2
|P2
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel end/Winglet root rib
|2+2
|P10, P11
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Winglet end rib
|2
|P16
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Wing centre section trailing edge
|1
|W17
|Balsa 5×20 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel trailing edge
|1+1
|P24R/L
|Balsa 5×20 mm
|-
|Leading edge 1+2 pieces
|1+1+1
|W30, P20
|Balsa 5×5 mm
|-
|Wing centre section D-box sheeting
|1
|W24
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel D-box sheeting
|2
|P27+P28
|Balsa 1.5 mm
|-
|Wing centre section main spar
|2
|W26
|Spruce 2×8×690 mm
|-
|Wing centre section rear spar
|1
|W27
|Spruce 3×6×690 mm
|-
|Wing centre section main spar shear webbing
|1+1
|W13
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel main spar shear webbing
|2
|P21
|Balsa 5 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel main spar
|4
|P33
|Spruce 2×8×380 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel rear spar
|2
|P23
|Spruce 3×5×380 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel main spar (outer)
|4
|P34
|Balsa 2×8×260 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel rear spar (outer)
|2
|P31
|Balsa 3×5×200 mm
|-
|Wing gusset set
|1
|W38, P33
|Balsa 2.5 mm
|-
|Wing tip
|2
|P18
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Wing tip reinforcement
|2
|P19
|Balsa 3 mm
|-
|Winglet fairing
|2
|P17
|Balsa 10 mm
|-
|Airbrake
|1+1
|W22, W23
|Balsa 2.5 mm
|-
|Airbrake torsion bar
|1
|W37
|Carbon rod Ø3 mm
|-
|Wing outer panel diagonal brace
|1
|P34
|Spruce 3×5×200 mm
|-
! colspan="4" |'''Bag no. 7'''
|-
|Fuselage side
|1+1
|F17L/R
|Balsa 2 mm
|-
|Fuselage bottom sheeting
|1
|
|Balsa 2.5 mm
|-
|Fuselage upper sheeting
|3
|
|Balsa 2.5 mm
|-
|Tail boom fairing
|1+1
|F11, F12
|Balsa 8 mm
|-
|Fuselage side reinforcement plate (front)
|2
|F3
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Fuselage side reinforcement plate (rear)
|1+1
|F5L/R
|Lite Ply 3 mm
|-
|Servo hatch
|1
|F16
|Balsa 2 mm
|-
|Ballast tube
|1
|F20
|Carbon tube Ø10 mm
|}
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