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<languages/>
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=== Introduction ===
Congratulations on purchasing the contest hand launch glider (HLG) '''Robin''', designed with beginners in mind. This kit is a great introduction to the classic “balsa bashing/dope & tissue” model building and covering. With a little help from an experienced HLG flyer, you can fine-tune your Robin turning it into a high-performance contest model. You will need some basic modeller's tools, glues and dopes. You will also find these handy with any of your future projects. Please make yourself familiar with the building plans and this manual '''before''' actually starting to assemble.
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=== Notice ===
The model you build and fly is not a toy! Although it may seem light and slow in flight, it is capable of causing injury or other damage if mistreated. It is up to you, and it is up to you whether you build the model properly, fly properly and continue to fly by common practice and rules (and common sense). If you are just getting started with aircraft models, ask for advice from your model shop or an experienced modeller at your local modelling club to find a good instructor.
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'''Before construction:''' Build the model exactly as instructed. Do not change or modify the model, because if you do, you risk that the model may be unsafe or unable to fly. Take the time to build, build everything firmly and reliably. Use appropriate tools, accessories and other equipment that is in top condition; correctly install all parts of the model and check the model before the first and every subsequent flight.
{{Note|'''Note:''' Us, as a kit manufacturer, can guarantee you a premium-quality kit with detailed instructions, but flight characteristics and performance depend entirely on how you complete the model. Since we have no control over how you complete and operate the model, we cannot assume (and cannot be assumed) any responsibility for any damage caused or related to the operation of your completed model.|type=info}}
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=== Specification ===
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* '''Wingspan''': 495 mm
* '''Length''': 500 mm
* '''All-up weight''': 32 g
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=== Before you start ===
'''Glue:''' You can use acetone-based modeller's glue (UHU Hart etc.), water-resistant white glue ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-disperzni-lepidlo-super-100g-160509 KAV56.9960] KAVAN White Glue, BISON® Super Wood etc.) or medium cyano ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-power-ca-20g-stredni-vterinove-lepidlo-en-152585 KAV56.9952] KAVAN Power CA Medium etc.).
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'''Dope:''' KAVAN's STANDARD line Adhesive dope ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-lepici-lak-standard-100ml-152719 KAV56.9988]), Shrinking dope ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-napinaci-lak-standard-100ml-152716 KAV56.9986]) and Thinner ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-redidlo-standard-250ml-152728 KAV56.9992]) are the must for the dope and tissue covering, indeed. You can use colour shrinking dopes KAVAN COLOR ([https://kavanrc.com/item/kavan-napinaci-lak-color-bily-100ml-152780 KAV56.9987].x) as well.
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'''Tools and accessories:''' You will need a perfectly flat building board (at least 150×700 mm), a modeller‘s knife ([https://www.kavanrc.com/item/kavan-knife-with-cutting-mat-156305 KAV66.770] with no.11 blades etc.), jigsaw, sanding blocks with 180 and 360–400 grit sandpaper, model hob by pins ([https://kavanrc.com/item/modelarske-spendliky-50ks-153803 KAV66.0355]), scissors, sharp model hobby knife, flat and round fine file, soft flat (1/4“–3/8”) brush, thin clear plastic film to protect the building plan (a large PE bag cut in half will work).
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=== Assembly ===
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==== Wing centre section ====
Lay the wing building plan on the building board and put a sheet of a thin clear plastic film to protect the building plan. Pin the right leading edge '''(1)''' and the trailing edge '''(2)''' down to the plan – the flat side down. Cut the outer ribs '''(3)''' from the No. 2 bevelled balsa stick; glue it to the leading and trailing edge so the slanted side pointed outward and up (it creates the wing outer panels dihedral - refer to the '''A-A detail'''). Cut from the no. 4 balsa stick to size and glue the central rib '''(4)''' in place. Now cut to size the wing ribs '''(5)''' from the no. 6 balsa stick and glue them into the notches in the leading and trailing edges. Once the glue has cured, remove the wing centre section from the building board and apply thin adhesive dope to the entire surface. Once the dope has cured, sand it carefully (first using the coarse sandpaper and later the fine one) to the shape of the airfoil – refer to the fuselage side view on the building plan. Build the left wing centre section in the same way.
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==== Wing panels ====
Pin the right wing panel trailing edge '''(6)''' to the building plan protected with plastic film. Glue the wing tip '''(7)''' to the trailing edge and then the right wing panel leading edge '''(8)''' - the flat side down. Cut the root rib '''(9)''' from the no. 2 bevelled balsa stick; glue it to the leading and trailing edge, so the slanted side is pointed outward and up (refer to the '''A-A detail'''). Now cut to size the wing panel ribs '''(10)''' from the No. 6 balsa stick and glue them into the notches in the leading and trailing edge and to the wing tip inner edge. Once the glue has cured, remove the wing panel from the building board and apply thin adhesive dope to the entire surface. Once the dope has cured, sand it carefully (first using the coarse sandpaper and later the fine one) to the shape of the airfoil. Build the left wing panel in the same way.
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==== Fuselage ====
Glue the nose '''(16)''' to the main fuselage '''(14)'''. Glue the upper fuselage stick '''(17)''' and the lower fuselage stick '''(15)''' in place. Cyano the fin '''(22)''' into the notch in the carbon tail boom '''(18).''' Be sure it was centred nicely in the tube '''(see Det. C-C)'''. Put the horizontal tailplane '''(23)''' on your workbench, apply 2–3 small drops of cyano between the centre lines drawn on the upper surface of the tailplane and then attach the tail boom with the fin, so the fin is square to the horizontal tailplane, the tail boom was exactly between the centre lines and the trailing edge of the horizontal tailplane was 8 mm be hind the tail boom end. Once satisfied with the alignment of the tail boom, f in and horizontal tailplane, apply medium CA along the entire joint of the tail boom and horizontal tailplane on both sides. Put the front part of the fuselage over the edge of your workbench (covered with a clear plastic film) so the nose '''(16)''' is overlapping freely over the edge. Set the fuselage square to the workbench and pin it in place. Roughen the contact area of the tail boom with sand paper; tack glue (2–3 small drops of medium CA) the tail boom to the front part of the fuselage. Check the correct alignment - be sure the entire fuselage is straight and the horizontal tailplane is flat on the workbench. Once satisfied, remove the fuselage from your workbench and apply medium CA along the entire tail boom/fuselage joint. Glue the ballast '''(20)''' into the nose. Matching the outline of the fuselage, glue the side covers '''(19+21)''' in place.
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==== Joining the wing ====
Carefully sand and match the left and right wing centre section outer ribs and the wing panel root ribs to get the correct dihedral (refer to the '''detail B-B'''). Pin down one of the wing centre sections to the building board covered by a sheet of thin clear plastic film. Apply glue to the other wing centre section root rib and attach it to the wing centre section pinned down. Support the outer rib with 12 mm balsa scrap to set the correct dihedral ('''det. BB,''' '''12 mm''' = 2×6 mm balsa scrap '''25'''). Use the remaining no. 4 stick to make '''40 mm''' dihedral jig '''(26)'''. Apply glue to the wing panel root rib and attach it to the wing centre section pinned down. Support the wing tip with the '''(26)''' dihedral jig. Glue the other wing panel in the same way.
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==== Doping model frames ====
Lightly sand the entire airframe with fine sandpaper. Before the frames are covered, all EXTERNAL surfaces MUST be primed with the adhesive dope (diluted at least 1:1 with the thinner; the dope must have the viscosity of water - never use the dope unthinned!). Use a soft flat brush to apply the dope and, when dry, lightly sand all doped surfaces with the fine sandpaper. Apply the second coat and sand lightly again.
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==== Tissue covering ====
Lay the horizontal tailplane on the covering tissue so the tissue “grains” run the long way - from tip to tip. Cut a piece of the tissue 5–8 mm oversized all around the outline wing. Apply the thinned adhesive dope around the external edges of the lower side of the wing and IMMEDIATELY set the tissue in position and smooth the edges with a fingertip before it has a chance to dry. Cut the tissue all around the outline of the wing, leaving it 3–4 mm oversize. Bend and glue with the adhesive and dope the overlapping tissue around the entire tailplane. You will have to cut the tissue against the wing panel joints and in short 4–8 mm portions around the wing tip to follow the curve of the tip. Add a second coat of the adhesive dope on the tissue where it contacts the frame. Do not spread dope on the rest of the tissue yet.
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Cover the upper side of the wing in the same manner. Start with the upper side of the wing centre section, and then the upper side of the wing outer panels. The tissue-covered wing should be given a coat of shrinking dope to protect the tissue from moisture. The shrinking dope must be diluted 50% with dope thinner - never use the “full strength” as it comes in the bottle. Apply two coats of the thinned shrinking dope. Once the tissue is nice and smooth without wrinkles (after 1–2 coats) you can apply the colour tissue trim – and continue applying the shrinking dope. Lightly sand all doped surfaces with fine sandpaper between each coat.
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'''Only apply the dope in a dry and well-ventilated area at room temperature''' (over 20 °C; low temperature/high humidity may cause “fogging” of some dopes turning them milky white instead of clear – if that happens you can usually cure it by taking the model to a dry and warm place and applying just the fresh thinner with a brush to the “fogged” part). The stickers are to be applied only after the final coat!
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==== Final assembly, centre of gravity (CG) ====
Glue the wing (centred) to the fuselage (use UHU hart or medium CA) – take care the wing dihedral is symmetric to the horizontal tailplane when looking from the nose and the wing is square to the fuselage when looking from above. Glue the tapered support triangle '''(11)''' to the bottom side of the wing and the fuselage side (det. B-B).
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Drill a 4 or 5 mm access hole into the additional ballast compartment in the fuselage (refer to the building plan). Support the wing of the model with your fingertips in the centre of gravity position (the point marked [[File:CG.svg|frameless|17x17px]] on the fuselage plan). The fuselage should be level - if the nose pitches up, put in as much additional ballast (not supplied in the kit) as necessary (you can use pellets, small screws etc.). Once satisfied, seal the hole with a strip of clear sticky tape. Finally, glue the anti-slip strips '''(27)''' made of fine sandpaper allowing a secure grip of your model when you are launching it.
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=== Flying ===
Choose a nice calm day for the first flight of your ROBIN. The flying field should be a flat, grassy site. There should be no buildings, cars, electric power leads or any other obstacles within 50–100 m. We highly recommend you join a local model flying club – you will get access to their flying field along with advice and help to make your first steps into model flying much easier and safer.
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==== Hand launch and initial trimming ====
The model must be launched into the wind every time. Throw grass into the air to observe the wind direction.
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Hold your model with the wings and fuselage level. Launch your model with a gentle push straight with the nose pointing slightly down. Do not throw your model with the nose up or at a greater angle than 10 degrees down. The model must have a certain minimum speed from the very start to stay airborne. It is not enough to just place your model in the air. It is better to land in tall grass to prevent any damage to your model during initial trimming.
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If everything is OK (correct wing and tailplane alignment, correct CG position) ROBIN will fly with the wings level in a nice glide with her nose pointing slightly down. You may have to adjust the elevator and/or rudder trim to achieve a smooth level glide.
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If the model glides straight down to the earth a few paces in front of you, carefully bend the trailing edge of the horizontal tailplane up slightly. Repeat the test and bend the trailing edge even more (if necessary) to achieve a smooth level glide.
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On the other hand, if the model climbs up and then stalls, you will need to bend the trailing edge of the horizontal tailplane down.
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Setting up your HLG model for a contest is quite complicated and requires some skills and a lot of trying and testing. We recommend studying handbooks and magazines available and surfing Internet sources for detailed descriptions. Usually, the best way is to seek assistance from a skilled contest flyer that could be found in a local model club.
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=== The kit contents ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width: 100%;"
|+
!'''Parts'''
!'''Building plan no.'''
!'''Quantity'''
|-
|Wing leading edge
|(1)
|2
|-
|Wing trailing edge
|(2)
|2
|-
|Wing panel leading edge
|(8)
|2
|-
|Wing panel trailing edge
|(6)
|2
|-
|Wing tip
|(7)
|2
|-
|Nose
|(16)
|1
|-
|Side cover
|(19, 21)
|1+1
|-
|Tail boom (carbon Ø 4 mm)
|(18)
|1
|-
|Fuselage reinforcement stick (spruce 2×5×105 mm)
|(15)
|1
|-
|Fuselage upper stick (spruce 3×5×175 mm)
|(17)
|1
|-
|Fuselage
|(14)
|1
|-
|Horizontal tailplane
|(23)
|1
|-
|Vertical tailplane
|(22)
|1
|-
|Support triangle
|(11)
|1
|-
|Bevelled balsa stick, no. 2 (7×7 mm)
|(3), (9)
|2
|-
|Balsa stick 7×10 mm, no. 4
|(4), (26)
|1
|-
|Balsa stick 7×1.5 mm, no. 6
|(5), (10)
|6
|-
|Ballast (rod) 
|(20)
|1
|-
|Anti-slip strip
|(27)
|2
|-
|Covering tissue
|
|1
|-
|Building plan
|
|1
|-
|Instruction manual
|
|1
|}
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