Translations:KAVAN Strike DLG - Instruction manual/13/en

Wing

The wing is to be built directly on the building plan protected by a thin sheet of clear plastic film. The wing ribs and riblets are supplied with jig tabs on the bottom side to allow building the wing with an under-cambered profile on a flat surface; at the same time producing the washout (the wing trailing edge is higher by 3 mm at the tips than at the root) necessary for a stable flight of the model. DO NOT CUT the mounting jigs; they will be removed only after the entire wing has been built. There is also the rib spacing jig to correctly set the leading edge ends of rib and riblet mounting jigs. (Fig. 12)
Epoxy together the wing central ribs W5 and W6; insert 3 mm beech dowels into the holes to obtain the correct match.
Note: Make a left and right pair of assemblies. (Fig. 9)
Glue the plywood reinforcement plate W39 (for the W64 DLG pin) into the wing tip W35 and then the wing tip to the trailing edge W30 on a flat working surface; glue the W36 and W37 reinforcement plates in place creating a notch for the plywood wing tip spar W38. (Fig. 10 + 11)
Thread all the wing ribs and riblets W3 to W32 onto the main spar carbon tube W60; use a round file to trim the openings in the ribs to set the ribs at the required angle. Thread the auxiliary carbon rod spar W61 through the respective holes in the W3 to W12 ribs. (Fig. 12)
Put the main spar with ribs onto the building plan and insert the ends of ribs into the corresponding notches in the trailing edge W44 (W45 for the right-wing half). Insert the front ends of the rib jig tabs into the corresponding notches of the rib spacing jig. Align all the parts to the correct position over the building plan; pin down where necessary and then glue the ribs W4 to W31 to the W60 main spar tube, W61 auxiliary spar and the trailing edge. Epoxy the wing tip spar W38 into the main spar tube and to the wing tip into the notch between the W36 and W37 reinforcement plates. Glue the wing tip to the W32 rib and finally, the W32 rib to the main spar and trailing edge. Glue the balsa gusset W33 between the W32 rib and the W31 riblet.
Glue the root rib W3 using the root rib dihedral jig in place. (Fig. 13)
Trim the notches for the leading edge W46 (3 mm beech dowel) in the ribs and riblets as necessary. Glue the leading edge (starting from the wing tip and then rib by rib towards the wing root). (Fig. 14)
Insert the W47 rear spar and the W48 aileron leading edge into the corresponding notches in ribs W4 to W32. Align them both flush with the upper edge of the ribs but do not glue yet.
Glue the W51 aileron servo frame together with the W52 upper cover plate between the W12 and W14 ribs from above (the opening in the frame fits KAVAN GO-06MG servos; you might have to trim it if other servos are used). Glue the aileron W62 root and W63 tip ribs in place - to the W48 aileron leading edge and W44(45) trailing edge ONLY. Glue the W50 aileron horn block between the W12 and W14 ribs; flush with the upper edge of the ribs and the W48 aileron leading edge. (Fig. 15+16)
Glue the W34 reinforcement plate between the W30 and W32 ribs, glue the W40 and W41 reinforcements to the wing tip, and glue the two W49 gussets in place. (Fig. 17)
Epoxy the plywood wing joiner bay plates W43 into the W3, W4 and W5/W6 ribs - be sure the bay will accommodate the W42 wing joiner nicely. (Fig. 20)
Thoroughly check the entire wing, you are almost there; the wing sports the required 3 mm washout at the tip due to the rib mounting tabs now. Once satisfied, apply cyano to all joints. Note: The W47 rear spar and the W48 aileron leading edge are supposed to be glued to the ribs ONLY, not to each other!
Now you can carefully cut the rib jig tabs using a sharp modeller’s knife.
Soak the W51 aileron servo frame and W52 plate with thin cyano or thinned epoxy from the inside. Glue the W53 bottom aileron servo cover between the W12 and W14 ribs. (Fig. 18)
Sand the bottom side of all ribs and riblets to shape with No. 120 sandpaper.
Glue the bottom wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W57 (with a rectangular opening for the aileron servo cable) and W58 in place; glue the plywood reinforcement plate W54 on the top of W58 along the area of the wing fixing bolt. (Fig. 19+20)
Thread a thick sewing thread through rectangular openings for the aileron servo cable in the W4 to W12 ribs and W57 bottom sheeting and secure it with pieces of sticky tape - it will help you to navigate the aileron servo cable through later.
Glue the top wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W56 and W55 in place. Sand the wing root flush with the W3 rib - the slanted position set with the root rib dihedral jig ensures the correct wing dihedral. (Fig. 21)
Use a fine razor saw and modeller’s knife blade to cut through the ribs and trailing edge to separate the aileron from the wing. Bevel the aileron leading edge by 30° following the Det. A-A. Finally, sand the entire aileron smooth using No. 180 sandpaper. (Fig. 23+24)
Assemble the other wing half in the same way.
Sand both two wing halves with No. 120 sandpaper. Trial fit - no glue yet - the wing halves and the W42 wing joiner; insert the riblets W1 and W2 between the root ribs. Once satisfied with the fit, epoxy the W42 wing joiner, and W1 and W2 riblets to one wing half aligned to match the wing root rib. (Fig. 25)
Put the wing half with the wing joiner glued in on your workbench (protected by a sheet of plastic film) so the alignment pin of the W1 riblet protrudes over the edge of the table; then epoxy the other wing panel. Be sure the trailing edges of both wing panels match perfectly. Double-check the correct wing halves alignment and let the epoxy set. (Fig. 26)
Epoxy the wing bolt plate W59 to the top of the wing centre; once the glue has cured drill a 4.2 mm hole for the wing bolt through the W59. (Fig. 26)
Now it is the time to decide which tip of the wing the discus launch pin is to be glued into - the left tip for a right-handed pilot, the right tip for a left-handed pilot. Laminate a strip of the fibreglass cloth around the hole for the discus launch pin on top and bottom of the wing tip. You can use a special low-viscosity laminating/finishing epoxy or a regular epoxy glue thinned slightly by an epoxy paint/dope thinner. Once the resin has cured, sand the entire wing smooth with No. 180 sandpaper.