Der kleine Falke A1 (F1H) glider 1240mm - Instruction manual

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Introduction[edit | edit source]

The Der Kleine FALKE (Little Falcon) glider is a great entry level kit for any modeller who wants to start build on their own; you can assemble it as a free flight model (meeting the requirements of the F1H alias A1 contest class). You can also install miniature RC gear and small electric power unit in order to enjoy flying with a small RC glider. You will need some basic modeller's tools, glues and dopes – you will find these handy with any of your future projects as well. Please make yourself familiar with the building plans and this manual BEFORE you actually start the assembly.

Before you start[edit | edit source]

Glue: You can use solvent based modeller's glue (UHU® Hart etc.), medium cyano (KAV9952 KAVAN Medium CA etc.) or water-resistant white glue (KAV9960 KAVAN White Glue etc.).

Dope: KAVAN Classic line Protective Dope (KAV56.9988) and Thinner (KAV9990) are highly recommended.

Tools and accessories: You will need a perfectly flat building board (at least 150×700 mm) , modeller's knife (Excel K1 with no. 11 blades etc.), razor saw, builder's triangle, electric drill with 1.5, 2.5 and 5.5 mm drill bits, sanding blocks/sponges with 180–200 and 360–400 grit sandpaper, needle files, model hobby pins (KAV0355 modeller's pins), soft flat (1/4"– 3/8") brush, thin clear plastic film to protect the building plan/building board (a large PE bag cut open will work).

Precautions[edit | edit source]

The model you build and fly is not a toy! Although it may seem light and slow in flight, it is capable of causing injury or other damage if mistreated. It is up to you whether you build the model properly, fly properly and continue to fly in accordance with common practice and rules (and common sense). If you are just getting started with aircraft models, ask for advice from your model shop or an experienced modeller at your local modelling club to find a good instructor.

Before construction: Build the model exactly as instructed. Do not change or modify the model. If you do, you risk that the model may be unsafe or unable to fly. Take the time to build everything firmly and reliably. Use appropriate tools, accessories and other equipment that is in top condition. Correctly install all parts of the model and check the model before the first and every subsequent flight.

Note: We, as a kit manufacturer, can guarantee you a premium quality kit with detailed instructions, but flight characteristics and performance depend entirely on how you complete the model. Since we have no control over how you complete and operate the model, we cannot (and cannot be assumed) assume any responsibility for any damage caused or related to the operation of your completed model.

Specification[edit | edit source]

Wingspan 1240 mm
Length 870 mm
All-up weight ca 160 g (F1H: min. 220 g)

Assembly[edit | edit source]

Before you start you should decide which version you are going to build:

Free flight glider: The Der Kleine FALKE conforms to the requirements of the F1H alias A1 contest class once you add additional ballast in order the all-up weight was bigger than 220 g.

RC glider: Install a miniature receiver with two 5–6 g micro servos to get a great little rudder&elevator control glider suitable even as your first RC model. The all-up weight should be also about 220 g.

Electric powered RC glider: You can easily install a power unit with a small brushless motor with a pusher propeller installed on a pylon above the wing. The all-up weight should be in the 300–320 g range.

Wing[edit | edit source]

  1. Carefully sand the entire surface of the wing leading edge halves no.1 and no. 2. Sand the leading edge to the shape shown on the detail in the left top of the building plan.
  2. Glue the wing spar no. 3 to the wing leading edge no.1 together on a flat building board protected with a sheet of thin plastic film. Test fit the parts together before applying the glue. Sand to fit if necessary.
  3. Once the glue has cured sand the bottom side of the no.1 and no. 3 parts perfectly flat.
  4. Support the wing leading edge with a suitable stick and glue the wing trailing edge part no. 4 to it.
  5. Once the glue has cured sand the upper side of the wing half smooth.
  6. Glue the no. 8 stick to the outer end of the wing half. Once the glue has cured sand it flat to match the wing surface. Build the other wing half in the same manner.
  7. Glue together parts no. 5 and no. 6 in order to make the wing joiner.
  8. Insert the wing joiner into the notch in the wing; attach the wing halves together (outer ends supported to create the correct wing dihedral – refer to the picture top left on the building plan) bevel and sand the roots of the wing halves to match each other perfectly.
  9. Once satisfied, glue the wing joiner into one of wing halves. Then apply a generous coat of glue to the other wing half and attach them together carefully keeping the correct wing dihedral.
  10. Glue together both two no. 9 parts of the wing outer panels. Sand the joint smooth and then glue the wing panels to the wing centre section carefully keeping the correct dihedral.
  11. Glue the wing trailing edge reinforcement plate no. 7 in place.
  12. Apply a light coat of thinned protective dope to the entire wing. When dry, lightly sand all doped surfaces with the fine sandpaper. Repeat twice more. Sand lightly once every coat has dried. Apply the stickers.

Fuselage and tail[edit | edit source]

  1. Glue the fuselage formers no. 18–22 square to the fuselage baseplate no. 10.
  2. Glue the no. 34 upper longerons to the formers.
  3. Glue the nose plates no.11–13 one by one in place.
  4. Glue the rear plates no. 28–33 one by one in place.
  5. Glue the no. 41 lower longerons to in place.
  6. Sand the both sides of the fuselage smooth.
  7. Glue the no. 23 fuselage side plates in place.
  8. Glue the no. 14 upper plate in place.
    Caution: Apply the glue ONLY in the front on the top of the no. 13 nose plate and ONLY tack glue the no. 14 plate in the rear (along the no. 20 former).
  9. Glue the no. 15–17 upper plates in place.
  10. Cut and sand smooth the fuselage in order to create nice smooth curves.
  11. Drill through the openings for the wing fixing dowels using 2.5 mm drill bit. Glue the dowels in place.
  12. Use a fine razor saw to cut through the no. 15 and no.14 plates in the laser scribed line in the nose. Remove the canopy carefully and glue the no. 27 alignment pin along the front edge of the no. 14 plate. The no. 27 pin overlaps the front edge of the no. 14 plate securing the front of the canopy in place.
  13. Bind the wing to the fuselage using supplied rubber bands. Now sand the rear bottom part of the canopy to match the curve of the wing.
  14. Glue the no. 24 inner tow hook plate to the bottom of the fuselage. Take care the pre-cut hole was in the longitudinal axis of the fuselage. Drill through the hole using 1.5 mm drill bit. Glue the no. 25 lower tow hook plate concentric to the hole in place.
  15. Apply a light coat of thinned protective dope to the entire fuselage. When dry, lightly sand all doped surfaces with the fine sandpaper. Repeat twice more. Sand lightly once every coat has dried.
  16. Drill through the hole for the tubular tail boom using a 5.5 mm drill bit in the rear end of the fuselage.
  17. Carefully cut the no. 37 control surfaces off the no. 36 V-tail stabilizers. Mark the centres of the "bridges" connecting the no. 36 and no. 37 parts. Round the outer edges of the stabilizers (except for the roots) and control surfaces.
  18. Glue together the no. 36 V-tail stabilizers using the supplied jig (Bag J) on a flat building board protected with a sheet of thin plastic film. Once the glue has cured, sand the joint smooth. Glue the tail boom tube to the V-tail stabilizers.
  19. Use a fine needle file to make a groove for the push rod tubes in the hole for the tail boom (the push rod tubes will be glued to the top of the tail boom later).
  20. Insert the tail boom into the fuselage. Attach the wing to the fuselage. Check the correct alignment of the V-tail. Once satisfied, glue the tail boom in place.
  21. Apply a light coat of thinned protective dope to the V-tail stabilizers and control surfaces. When dry, lightly sand all doped surfaces with the fine sandpaper. Repeat once or twice more. Sand lightly once every coat has dried.
  22. Stick a modelling pin into the centre of the trailing edge of the V-tail stabilizer in the previously marked spot. Enlarge the hole slightly by twirling the pin carefully. Make the other holes for the nylon line hinges (Bag J) in the no. 36 stabilizers and no. 37 control surfaces. Cut 8 mm pieces of the supplied nylon line and glue them half-way into the holes in the stabilizers. Once the glue has set, glue the control surfaces onto the protruding nylon lines.
  23. Glue the push rod outer tubes to the top of the tail boom. Insert the piano wire push rods into the tubes, thread the no. 38 control surface horns on the Z-bends and glue them into the notches in the control surfaces.

Flying[edit | edit source]

  1. Tie the wing to the fuselage using the supplied rubber bands. Add ballast as necessary in order to achieve the correct position of the centre of gravity (CG). Support the wing of the model with your fingertips in the point marked "" on the fuselage plan. The fuselage should be level - if the nose pitches up, add more ballast into the nose. If the tails pitch up, remove the ballast.
    Free flight model: Place and secure the appropriate ballast in the nose. If you intend to enter an F1H (A1) contest, you will have to add additional ballast into the CG position in order the all-up weight of your model was higher than 220 g.
    RC model: Try to place the receiver battery, servos and receiver in such a manner the correct CG position was achieved without adding any ballast at all if possible.
  2. Free flight model: Secure the protruding piano wire push rods to their outer tubes by a strip of sticky tape in the cockpit. This will allow trimming the model if necessary, whilst the position of control surfaces remains fixed.
  3. Choose a nice, calm day for the first flight of your Der Mini FALKE. The flying field should be a flat, grassy site; free of power lines or other obstacles. The model must be launched into the wind every time. Throw grass into the air to observe the wind direction. Hold your model with the wings and fuselage level. Launch your model with a gentle push straight with the nose pointing slightly down. Do not throw your model with nose up, or at greater angle than 10 degrees down. The model must have a certain minimum speed from the very start to stay airborne. It is not enough to just place your model in the air. It is better to land in tall grass in order to prevent any damage to your model during initial trimming.

If everything is OK (correct wing and tailplane alignment, correct CG position), Der Kleine FALKE will fly with the wings level in a nice glide with its nose pointing slightly down. If the model glides straight down to the earth a few paces in front of you, move both two control surfaces (exactly the same) slightly up. On the other hand, if the model climbs up and then stalls, you will need to move both two control surfaces slightly down. If your model turns left, move the right control surface slightly down and the left control surface slightly (exactly the same) up - and vice versa. Repeat the test until you achieve a smooth long glide.

The RC model is to be trimmed in the same manner. You will just use the control sticks and trims to control the flight and adjust the neutral.

Once trimmed out you can try your first hi-start with your Der Kleine FALKE using 50 m towline (a fishing line) or a bungee (5 m of 3×2 mm rubber thread and 20 m of thin fishing line). Tie a key ring to one end (bowline knot is the best) and a flag (a piece of red cloth) 20–30 cm from the end. The flag makes the towline visible in the air as well as on the ground. Find a suitable spool to keep the towline on.