The fuselage consists of the F2 carbon reinforced fibreglass part and the F1 carbon tail boom with milled slots for the fin and horizontal tailplane pylon.
Horizontal tailplane pylon: Epoxy the aluminium captive nuts M4 and M3 into the F9 liteply horizontal stabilizer pylon matching the openings in the F10 horizontal tailplane seat that is to be epoxied square onto the top of the pylon. Glue the F11 balsa blocks on the sides of the F9 pylon. Sand the blocks to match the outline of F9 and F10. Trial fit the pylon into the slot in the F1 tail boom. Trim the bottom of the F11 blocks until the F9 connects with the bottom of the tail boom and the balsa blocks are matching the surface of the boom. Round the leading and trailing edges of the pylon and cover it with your favourite iron-on film - now it is prepared for the final assembly. (Fig. 14)
Drill and cut 2 mm slots for the rudder (right side) and elevator (left side) push rod exits - refer to Fig. 16+17. Insert the elevator and rudder push rod sleeves into the F1 tail boom threading them out through the respective exit slots. Epoxy the horizontal tailplane pylon in place. (Fig. 15 + 16 + 17)
Slide the smallest of the three push rod plywood holders (packed in bag. no. 1) onto the push rod sleeves and push inside the tail boom using a suitable hardwood stick. Secure it with a small amount of epoxy or cyano.
Attach the horizontal tailplane to the pylon and secure it with screws; remove the covering film from the fin-tail boom contact area and insert the fin into the slot in the tail boom. Trim as necessary; double check the fin was square to the horizontal tailplane. Once satisfied, epoxy the fin in place. Epoxy the F6 tail skid in place as well.
Insert and glue the two remaining plywood push rod holders into the tail boom.
Tow hook (glider): Disassemble the supplied tow hook, use the F8 plate as a template to drill the openings for the M3 screws and 4.5–5 mm slot for the F7 hook and its setting screw (assuming the CG position is 77–81 mm behind the leading edge of the wing, the tow hook is to be positioned 4–10 mm in front the CG depending on the wind). Install the tow hook into the fuselage. (Fig. 18)
Firewall (electric): Glue together the liteply nose cutting jig (32 mm spinner is assumed). Mark the cutting line with a soft pencil; cut the nose with a razor saw and sand flush. Epoxy the F3 firewall in place (check whether your motor matches the firewall first. Trim if necessary or make a new firewall of 3 mm plywood or fibreglass plate). (Fig. 19)
Trim the servo tray F4E to match your servos if necessary and insert it into the fuselage (the long cut-out for your flight pack towards the tail). The tray is to be glued in place only after you have checked the correct CG position with your motor, ESC, servos and flight pack (3S LiPo 750–850 mAh for the contest flying. Anything 3S that will fit the fuselage for Sunday flying) installed. (Fig. 20)
Aileron and flap servos connector: A pair of the MPX8 8-pin connectors is supplied in the kit suitable for the cable connection of the aileron and flap servos and your receiver. The male part (with pins) is to be secured by screws into the fuselage, and the female part into the wing. Solder the extension cables with (+) and (-) pins shared, the remaining pins are for the servo signal leads. (Fig. 21)
Servo tray (glider): The servo tray F4 supplied in the kit is tailored to KAVAN GO-1020MG/GO-1021MG servos or similar. The servos are to be secured using the supplied fibreglass stoppers. If you are going to use different servos, trim the tray as necessary or make a new one to match your servos. Insert the servo tray into the fuselage allowing the clearance for your receiver battery in the nose. Once satisfied, epoxy the tray in place. (Fig. 22)
Tail boom installation: Insert the tail boom into the fibreglass fuselage carefully - trim the bay in the fuselage if necessary. Check whether the elevator and rudder push rods are still moving freely in their sleeves.
Once satisfied, attach the horizontal tailplane and wing centre section. Apply 30 min epoxy to the contact surfaces and insert the tail boom into the fuselage taking care of the horizontal tailplane and the wing were parallel. Double-check the correct alignment before the glue cures.
Elevator and rudder servos and horns installation: (If you are building the electric version, install your motor with propeller and ESC, secure the wing with servos installed and the horizontal tailplane, insert your receiver, flight pack and the F4E servo tray with servos into the fuselage. Moving the servo tray and flight pack try to achieve the CG position 77–81 mm behind the wing leading edge without any additional ballast if possible. Once satisfied, epoxy the F4E servo tray in place.) Cut the push rot sleeves to make room for the full servo travels (leave a margin for the ball links and threaded couplers). Remove the piano wire push rods and solder the M2/0,8 mm brass threaded couplers to one end. Screw the M2 ball links on. Insert the push rods back into their respective sleeves and secure the ball links to the rudder and elevator horns (those with triangular openings) with supplied screws. (Fig. 16+17)
Fit the horizontal tailplane to the fuselage. Insert the control horns into the rudder and elevator - do not glue yet. Set the servos in a neutral position with your radio on and mark the correct length of the push rod wires. Make a “Z” bend on the end of the pushrods or solder the M2/0,8 mm brass threaded couplers, screw on the plastic quick-links and attach the push rods to the rudder and elevator servo arms. Check once again and only then cyano the control horns in place. Do not forget to glue the end of the elevator push rod tube to the fuselage in the cockpit.
Canopy: You can secure the canopy simply using strips of clear sticky tape or you can make a spring lock as per Fig. 23. Make two ca 65 mm long loops of 1.0–1.2 mm piano wire (not supplied in the kit) and epoxy them inside the canopy overlapping by 8–10 mm. Bend the ends up slightly. (Fig. 23)
