Using a very sharp pointed modeller’s knife, cut the covering film over the opening for the tailplane pylon in the horizontal stabilizer and over control horn slots in the elevator and rudder. Cut the small slots for the Kevlar® thread in the fin - refer to Fig. 9.
Use a fine needle file to trim the pre-cut slots for the horizontal tailplane pylon, fin and elevator and rudder push rod exits in the carbon tube tail boom. Use a round fine needle file to make a groove for the rudder push rod tube in the tailplane pylon F22. (Fig. 8)
Insert the tailplane pylon F22 into the tail boom - no glue yet. Insert the fin and rudder assembly into the notch at the end of the tail boom and tack glue it to the tail boom. Bind the fin to the tail boom with a Kevlar® thread threaded through the slots in the fin. (Fig. 9)
Slide the horizontal stabilizer on the F22 tailplane pylon; align it square to the fin and to the longitudinal axis of the tail boom and tack glue it to the pylon. Double-check the correct alignment; once satisfied, apply a generous amount of cyano along all the joints and onto the Kevlar® thread. Insert the elevator and rudder push rod outer tubes into the tail boom. Secure them with a piece of polyurethane foam soaked with epoxy that you will work into the centre of the tail boom with a thin stick. This is great for a precise, slope free elevator and rudder control. (Fig. 10 + 11)
The servo mount supplied in the kit has been tailored for the recommended KAVAN GO-6MG servos. Whatever type of servos you are going to use, always check if the openings won’t need a bit of trimming first. We recommend soaking the edges of the servo openings with cyano. Once satisfied, glue the servo mount in place (the servos are to be fitted in the upside-down position). (Fig. 12+13)
Thread the protruding ends of the elevator and rudder push rod outer tubes through the holes in the rear servo compartment former so the tubes lead directly to the horns of servos in the servo mount. Insert the tail boom into the fuselage - no glue yet. (Fig. 14)
Attach the wing to the fuselage and secure it with the M4 bolt. Looking from above, front and rear check the fuselage and tail boom are straight and the wing dihedral makes a nice symmetrical "V" in relation to the horizontal stabilizer. Once satisfied cut the push rod outer tubes to the correct length and epoxy thoroughly the tail boom into the fuselage. Double-check the correct alignment before the glue sets.
Solder the M2 brass threaded couplers on one end of the 0.8 mm piano wire push rods. Screw the ball links on and slide the push rods into the respective outer tubes. Secure the ball links to both two servo arms with the M1.6 screws supplied in the kit. Insert the fibreglass control horns into the slots in the elevator and rudder - do not glue yet. Set the servos to the neutral with your radio on. Attach the servo arms square to the side of the servo case. Set the elevator and rudder flush with the horizontal stabilizer resp. fin. Mark the correct length of the push rods and bend them to the right angle (you can make a "Z-bend", but the simple L-bend usually works well enough). Insert the L-bends into the holes in the control horns and cyano the horns into the elevator and the rudder still set in the neutral position. Finally, secure the servos with drops of hot melt glue, silicone or MS polymer glue in the servo tray. (Fig. 15+10+11)
Glue the F14 locking plate to the front of the servo & battery compartment hatch; the locking plate has to match the position of a notch in the fuselage side reinforcement plate; the hatch has to match the opening in the fuselage side. Epoxy the pair of magnets F15 into the hatch and fuselage. Double-check their polarity - they have to cling to each other! For easy removal, apply a strip of folded sticky tape to the rear edge of the hatch. (Fig. 16+17)
Install your receiver into the fuselage under the wing; the receiver battery will go into the nose.
