KAVAN Mirai - Instruction manual

Introduction

Precautions

This RC model is not a toy. Use it with care and strictly following the instructions in this manual.

Assemble this model following strictly these instructions. DO NOT modify or alter the model. Failure to do so, the warranty will lapse automatically. Follow the instructions in order to obtain a safe and solid model at the end of the assembly.

Children under the age of 14 must operate the model under the supervision of an adult.

Assure that the model is in perfect conditions before every flight, taking care that all the equipment works correctly and that the model is undamaged in its structure.

Fly only in days with light breeze and in a safe place away from any obstacles.

Caution: This RC model you will build and fly is not a toy! Although it may seem to be light and slow in flight it is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility and yours alone - to build this model correctly, properly install RC equipment and motor and to test the model and fly in accordance with all safety standards (and common sense) as set down in Safety Codes valid in your country. If you are just starting RC modelling, consult your local hobby shop or an experienced modeller in your local RC club to find a good instructor.

You must build the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe of unflyable model. Take time to build straight, true and strong. Use proper radio and other equipment that is in first class condition, properly install all the components and test their correct operation before first and any further flight. Fly the model only with competent help from a well experienced modeller if you are not already an experienced RC pilot.

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it. We cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Specification

Wingspan	1995 mm
Length	1210 mm
All–up weight	420 g plus
Wing section	Special RES HB
CG position	80 mm
Controls	Rudder, elevator, airbake, (motor)

Recommended RC equipment

• Rudder and elevator servo: Hitec HS-53 2×
• Spoiler servo: Hitec HS-65MG, Dymond D47
• Receiver battery: Panasonic Eneloop AAA 800mAh 4.8 V pack

Recommended glues

Unless stated otherwise, use medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue (KAV9952 KAVAN CA Medium). D-box sheeting and wing ribs are better to be glued using a water resistant white aliphatic resin, like our KAV9960 KAVAN White Glue (alternatively, you can use this sort of glue for most of wood-to-wood joints). The highly loaded parts (wing roots, wing main spars, firewall etc.) should be glued together using 30 minute (or slower) epoxy (like KAV9967 Epoxy 30min) offering high strength and enough time for the correct positioning.

Tools and accessories

• Very sharp modeller’s knife (e.g. Excel 16001 with No. 11 blades)
• Scissors
• Electric drill with drill bits
• Wire cutter
• Long nose pliers
• Screwdrivers
• Razor saw
• Sandpaper No. 80, 100, 180, 360–400
• Needle files
• Soldering iron and solder
• Clothing pegs
• Modeller’s pins
• Epoxy mixing stick and vessel
• Masking tape, clear sticky tape
• Rubbing alcohol (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
• Paper tissue or soft cloth (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
• Straightedge with scale
• Square edge
• Thin clear plastic film (for protecting the building plan)
• Permanent marker
• Modeller’s sealing iron, heat gun (for covering)
• Lightweight balsa filler

Model assembly

Tail surfaces

Everything has been designed extremely light; yet strong enough. The tail feathers are removable for easy transport/storage.

• Trial fit the parts of the horizontal stabilizer, elevator, fin and rudder – no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain perfect fit. (Fig. 1)
• Please note the opening for the fin fixing plate R10 is slightly offset to the left in R13,T4 and T8 parts. You can turn the parts upside down having the opening offset to the right; but whatever you choose, the offset of all three parts HAS TO MATCH.
• Tack glue the plastic tubes R9 into the fin with a few drops of CA.
• Roughen the surface of the 3×0.5mm R12 carbon spar using No. 150 sandpaper and glue it with medium CA to the trailing edge of the fin. Glue the T9 reinforcement strip to the centre part of the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer in the same way.
• Glue together all the balsa parts using medium CA or aliphatic resin.
• Glue the fin root rib R13 (1.2 mm plywood); do not forget the opening for the R10 fin fixing plate is supposed to be offset to the left. Use the R11 carbon rods inserted into the R9 tubes as alignment pins for the R13 root rib. Double-check the root rib was straight and square to the fin. Take care the R11 were not glued in to the fin in this step. (Fig. 2)
• Put the tail surfaces aside for now; they will be finished after the tailplane seat is installed to the tail boom.

Fuselage (glider version)

• Trial fit the parts of the fuselage– no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain perfect fit. (Fig. 3)
• Glue the Lite Ply reinforcement plates F3 and F5L to the inner side of the F17L fuselage side (with the large opening for the F16 hatch); glue the plates F3 and F5R to the inner side of the F17R fuselage side (without the hatch opening). (Fig. 4)
• Glue the F6 locking plate to the front of the F16 hatch; the locking plate has to match the position of a notch in the F5L reinforcement plate and the hatch matched the opening in the F17L fuselage side. The pair of F21 magnets will be epoxied into the F16 hatch and F5L plate only after the fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron might demagnetize the magnets. (Fig. 14)
• Epoxy together the tail boom holder consisting of the Lite Ply part F13 and plywood parts F10 and F14. Attach the F9 wing bolt plate with the M5 aluminium captive nut epoxied in place. Insert the entire assembly of the tail boom holder between the fuselage sides. Now you can start gluing the fuselage from the rear to the nose. (Fig. 6)
• Glue together the nose part of the fuselage; do not forget bevelling the edges of the fuselage formers and F18 and F19 Lite Ply braces as required. (Fig. 9)
• Epoxy the F9 wing bolt plate and the tail boom holder assembly in place.
• Bevel the F1 nose blocks and glue in place.
• Partially cut (ca 1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the front edge of the F2 fuselage former and glue them to the F1 blocks (the cut line is to be soaked with thin CA before the final sanding).
• Epoxy the tow hook plate F15 in place. Glue the F20 carbon ballast tube into the holes in F7 and F8 formers. (Fig. 10)
• Glue the upper and lower 2.5 mm balsa sheeting to the fuselage. Slide the tail boom tube F22 onto the tail boom holder – do not glue yet. Fit and glue the balsa fairing plates F11 and F12 in place. Carefully match all the parts so the tail boom had a tight fit but remained still easily detachable. (Fig. 11) (Fig. 12)
• Sand the entire front part of fuselage; take care all the parts including the F11/F12 fairing created a smooth transition between the fuselage and the tail boom. (Fig. 14)
• Insert the R11 carbon rods into the pre-drilled holes in the tail boom; glue them in place. The bottom ends or the rods should stick out by 1–2 mm from the tail boom (the upper side of the tail boom is slightly flattened in order to accommodate the tailplane seat). Slide the T8 tailplane seat onto the R11 rods and epoxy it to the tail boom square to the rods. (Fig. 15)
• Epoxy the M3 aluminium captive nut R16 to the pre-drilled hole on the right side of the tail boom.

Fuselage (electric version)

• The building sequence of the electric version fuselage is basically the same as with the glider version except for the firewall, nose and servo tray; also the F20 ballast tube is not to be used.
• Instead of Lite Ply F3 reinforcement plates, glue the balsa triangular sticks E4 along the edges of fuselage sides F17L and F17R. (Fig. 5) (Fig 7)
• Epoxy the E3 servo tray behind the F7 fuselage former.
• Epoxy the firewall E2 in place. Before you epoxy the firewall in, make sure the openings and holes in the firewall match your motor – make any changes as necessary or cut a new firewall to match your motor perfectly.
• Once the bottom and upper sheeting is in place cut the fuselage sides flush with the front edge of the E2 firewall. Temporarily install your motor and use the spinner as a jig to align the E1 plywood ring; once satisfied, epoxy it in place. Sand the nose to the desired shape matching your spinner. (Fig. 9) (Fig. 10)

Tail surfaces - continued

• Insert the R10 fibreglass fin fixing plate into the opening in the fin. Do not glue yet! (Fig. 16)
• Slide the horizontal stabilizer and fin onto the R11 carbon rods. Screw in the M3 nylon bolt through the hole in the tail boom, R10 plate into the F16 nut. Align the R10 late flush with the left side of the fin. Push the fin to the stabilizer and fuselage and tack glue the R10 plate to the fin with a couple of CA drops. (Fig. 17) (Fig. 18)
• Remove the fin, cyano the R10 plate thoroughly to the fin; fill the recess on the right side using the R14 1.5 mm balsa filler. Sand the entire fin smooth. (Fig. 19)
• The rudder and elevator horns R16 and T10 as well as the R8 skid will be glued in later, after the tail surfaces are covered.

Wing

Wing centre section

• Epoxy together the wing central ribs W3 and W4; insert 3 mm beech dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match.
  
  Note: Make a left and right pair of ribs. (Fig. 20)
• Epoxy the W10 wing fixing bolt plate between the central ribs. (Fig. 21) ◊Epoxy together the parts of the W13 main spar shear webbing; the short 0.8 mm ply W11 joiner (with a hole in the centre) to the front side, the W12 long joiner to the rear side. (Fig. 22) (Fig. 23) ◊Make bays for P32 wing carbon joiners; epoxy together the W14 front (shorter) 0.8 mm ply plate, 5 mm ply central plate W15 and rear 0.8 mm ply (longer, slanted edge) W16 plate. Prevent the epoxy hardening inside the bays – put the parts together with the P32 carbon joiner inserted, then immediately remove the joiner (do not forget cleaning the joiner using a paper tissue and rubbing alcohol before the glue sets). (Fig. 24) ◊Slide all ribs onto the mains spar shear webbing (no glue yet!). Bind the joiner bays with the provided Kevlar thread and soak with medium CA. (Fig. 25) (Fig. 26)