KAVAN FunStik 1280mm kit - Bauanleitung
Einführung
Vorsichtsmaßnahmen
Dieses RC-Modell ist kein Spielzeug. Benutzen Sie es mit Vorsicht und befolgen Sie die Anweisungen in dieser Anleitung genau.
Sie sich an die Anweisungen in dieser Anleitung. Bauen Sie das Modell gemäß der Anleitung zusammen. Modifizieren und verändern Sie das Modell nicht. Bei Nichteinhaltung erlischt die Garantie. Folgen Sie der Anleitung um ein sicheres und haltbares Modell nach dem Zusammenbau zu erhalten.
Kinder unter 14 Jahren müssen das Modell unter Aufsicht eines Erwachsenen betreiben.
Versichern Sie sich vor jedem Flug, dass das Modell in einwandfreiem Zustand ist, dass alles einwandfrei funktioniert und das Modell unbeschädigt ist.
Fliegen Sie nur an Tagen mit leichtem Wind und an einem sicheren Platz ohne Hindernisse.
Bauen Sie das Modell genau nach der Anleitung. Ändern Sie oder passen Sie das Modell auf keine Weise an. Sonst riskieren Sie, dass das Modell gefährlich oder unbeherrschbar sein kann. Finden Sie Zeit für den Bau, bauen Sie alles fest und zuverlässig. Benutzen Sie ein entsprechendes RC Set und andere Ausstattung, die im perfekten Zustand ist; installieren Sie richtig alle Teile des Modells und überprüfen Sie ihren Betrieb und Funktionieren vor dem ersten und vor jedem nächsten Flug. Wenn Sie kein erfahrener RC Pilot sind, fliegen Sie nur mit Hilfe eines erfahrenen Modellbauers.
Technische Daten
Spannweite: | 1280 mm |
Länge: | 1040 mm |
Fluggewicht ab: | 1450–1500 g |
Profil: | Symmetrisch |
Steuerbare Funktionen: | Querruder, Seitenruder, Höhenruder, Gas |
Empfohlener antrieb und empfohlene RC-anlage
Elektromotor | Verbrennungsmotor | |
Motor | KAVAN C3542–1250 | O.S. MAX–25FX II |
Propeller | APC 10×6E | 9×5–6" |
Regler | KAVAN R–50SB | - |
Kraftstofftank | - | 100–170 ml* |
Akku | KAVAN LiPo 11,1 V 2200 mAh 40/80C | NiMH 4,8 V 2000 mAh |
Servos
Elektromotor | Verbrennungsmotor | |
Querruder | 2× GO–13MG | 2× GO–13MG |
Seitenruder & Höhenruder | 2× GO–52MG (2× GO–17MG) | 2× GO–52MG |
Gas | - | GO–06MG |
*) 100-150 ml Kraftstofftanks eignen sich für übliche 3,5 ccm Motoren, für leistungsstärkere O.S. MAX-25FX II sind 150-170 ml Kraftstofftanks geeigneter.
Recommended glues
Unless stated otherwise, use medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue (KAV9952 KAVAN CA Medium). D-box sheeting and wing ribs are better to be glued using a water resistant white aliphatic resin, like our KAV9960 KAVAN White Glue (alternatively, you can use this sort of glue for most of wood-to-wood joints). The highly loaded parts (wing roots, wing main spars, firewall etc.) should be glued together using 30 minute (or slower) epoxy (like KAV9967 Epoxy 30min) offering high strength and enough time for the correct positioning/alignment.
Recommended covering material
The iron-on films like ORACOVER® or ORALITE® (if you wanted to keep the weight really down) will work the best for your FunStik.
Tools and accessories
- Very sharp modeller's knife (e.g. Excel 16001 with No. 11 blades)
- Scissors
- Electric drill with drill bits
- Wire cutter
- Long nose pliers
- Screwdrivers
- Razor saw
- Sandpaper No. 80, 100, 180, 360–400
- Needle files
- Soldering iron and solder
- Clothing pegs
- Modeller's pins
- Epoxy mixing stick and vessel
- Masking tape, clear sticky tape
- Rubbing alcohol (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
- Paper tissue or soft cloth (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
- Straightedge with scale
- Square edge
- Thin clear plastic film (for protecting the building plan)
- Permanent marker
- Modeller's sealing iron, heat gun (for covering)
- Lightweight balsa filler
Model assembly
Wing
1. Locate all the parts for one half of the wing. Sand to fit all plywood/Lite Ply parts, the inner leading edge, bottom and upper main spars 14 if necessary.
2. One by one, insert all the wing ribs 1 to 4 into the Lite Ply main spar shear webbing 15.
3. Insert the inner leading edge, bottom and upper main spars 14 and the trailing edge shear webbing 16 into respective notches in ribs.
4. Once you are satisfied with the fit and you are sure the wing structure is true and straight, glue all the parts together. We recommend using epoxy for the root ribs 1–3 and the main spars 14.
5. Epoxy the wing bolt reinforcements 10 and 11 in place.
6. Use white aliphatic resin to glue the top and bottom D-box balsa sheeting 19 and the top and bottom trailing edge sheeting 20. Be sure the wing still remains true and straight.
7. Glue the wing centre bottom balsa sheeting 8 and 9 and the top sheeting 9 in place.
8. Glue the outer leading edge 13, trailing edge 17 and corner gussets 7 (top and bottom) in place.
9. Glue together the wing tip consisting of parts 5, 6, 22 and 23.
10. Sand the outer wing end flush with the edges of the outer rib 4.
11. Glue the wing tip assembly in place and sand flush with the wing.
12. Glue together the aileron servo box consisting of parts 24–27.
13. Glue the aileron servo box assembly between the ribs; sand it flush with the edges of ribs. You can glue it to get bottom or top side wing access. The bottom access is preferred, but if you decided to fly your FunStik without the undercarriage (belly landing it on a grassy airfield) it is safer placing the servos and aileron linkage on the top side of the wing.
14. Glue the aileron servo cable leading stick 28 in place.
15. Glue together the two aileron parts 18. Sand them in the shape once the glue has cured.
16. Cut the notches for aileron hinges into the trailing edge and aileron. Insert the hinges into the trailing edge and aileron - do not glue yet. Be sure the aileron moves freely in the required range up and down. The hinges are to be glued after the wing and aileron has been covered.
19. Apply epoxy to the contact areas of both two wing halves and the wing joiner. Attach the wing halves together. Double-check the correct alignment! Once the epoxy has cured, glue the top wing centre balsa sheeting 8 in place.
20. Glue together the centre trailing edge parts 21 and to the wing. Sand them in the shape according to the building plan once the glue has cured.
21. Carefully sand the entire wing and ailerons clean using No. 180–220 sanding paper/sanding block and then with No. 400. Attach the aileron servo extension cables to the leading sticks 28 using plastic cable ties or strips of clear sticky tape.
22. The wing is ready to covering now.
Tail feathers
23. Glue the reinforcement sticks 69 into the horizontal stabilizer 67.
24. Once the glue has set, sand the entire horizontal stabilizer using a sanding block with No. 180–220 sandpaper. Round the leading and trailing edges. Sand the elevator 68 in the same manner as well.
25. Cut the notches for elevator hinges into the stabilizer and elevator. Insert the hinges - do not glue yet. Be sure the elevator moves freely within the required range up and down. The hinges are to be glued after the stabilizer and elevator have been covered.
26. Glue together the fin parts 64 and 65 on a flat working surface. Glue the sticks 71 into the fin. Once the glue has set, sand the entire fin using a sanding block with No. 180–220 sandpaper. Round the leading and trailing edges. Sand the rudder 66 in the same manner as well. Prepare the rudder hinges in the same way you did with the elevator.
27. Fine sand the entire empennage using a sanding block with No. 400 sandpaper - the tail feathers are ready to covering now.
Fuselage
28. Prepare all the plywood/Lite Ply parts of the fuselage and the bottom balsa plate 53. Sand to fit if necessary. Check if the rudder and elevator servo tray parts 42 and 43 fit the servos you intend to use. Modify the servo trail parts as needed or make new ones from 3 mm Lite Ply tailored to your servos. If you have opted for a glow engine, make sure your intended fuel tank (wrapped in 3–5 mm foam rubber to reduce fuel foaming due to motor vibrations) fits the openings in formers 34, 35 and 38. Modify the formers as needed.
29. Pin down the fuselage bottom plate 53 to a flat working surface protected with a sheet of thin plastic film.
30. One by one, glue the fuselage formers and braces 30 to 49 to the bottom plate 53. We recommend using epoxy for parts 30–44.
31. Epoxy both two Lite Ply sides 51 and top brace 50 in place.
32. Now it is the right moment for preparing the engine/motor mount installation. Draw horizontal and vertical centre lines on the front face of the firewall - they will help with the correct alignment of your engine/motor mount. The recommended down thrust (-3 ° down for both electric motor and glow engine) will be achieved with a suitable insert under the top of the motor/engine mount. Usually, no side thrust is necessary.
Glow engine: Put an engine mount suitable for your glow engine onto the firewall. Align it to the centre lines so the shaft axis (corresponds to the bottom of the engine mounting lugs/top surface of the engine mount lugs) was centred. Mark the position of the engine mount mounting holes to the firewall.
Electric motor: Put the radial mount cross supplied with your motor (or sold separately) onto the firewall. Align it to the centre lines so the shaft axis was centred and the cross was in the "X" position and mark the mounting holes to the firewall.
Glow engine & electric motor: Drill the holes for mounting bolts (usually M3 screws). Install corresponding blind nuts to the back side of the firewall (M3 blind nuts - e.g. KAV0090/20 - not supplied in the kit) or glue regular hex nuts pressed into small scraps of plywood in there.
33. Glow engine: Install the engine mount and your motor with silencer. Mark the position for the throttle push rod outer tube opposite to the carburettor lever on the firewall and drill 3 mm hole. Insert your fuel tank into the fuselage in order to check it could be placed in the correct position in relation to the needle-valve/carburettor rotor as recommended by the manufacturer of your engine.
Electric motor: Install your motor and mark the position of an opening for the motor cables in the firewall. Cut the hole.
34. Glue the fuselage longerons 60 in place.
35. Sand the fuselage sides and glue balsa sides 52 in place (white glue recommended).
36. Glue the elevator and rudder push rod outer tubes in place.
37. Glue the tail tip 63 in place and then, one by one, the top fuselage balsa sheeting 59 (cross-grain).
38. Glue the trailing edge plate 58 in place, the undercarriage plate 72 and the top nose sheeting 54 in place. Carefully sand the entire fuselage including the fuel tank/battery hatch clean using No. 180–220 sanding paper/sanding block and then with No. 400. The fuselage is ready to covering now.
39. Glue together the tail skid consisting of parts 61 and 62. Sand and cover it.
Covering
- Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360–400 sandpaper and carefully vacuum all the dust (The iron-on film does not stick well to a dusty surface. The dust also contains hard grains released off the sandpaper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).
- Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent Oracover, Oralite etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with the covering film of your choice please.
Final assembly
40. Cut the covering film over the opening for the fuel tank/battery hatch 55 in the top nose sheeting 54. Glue the pin 56 along the front bottom edge of the hatch and install the hatch lock 57.
41. Glow engine: Apply a coat of fuel-proof dope or epoxy (thinned with epoxy paint/dope thinner) to the entire fuel tank compartment from the firewall to the former 38 and the bottom side of the hatch 55. Apply a fuel-proofing coat to the front side of the firewall as well. Apply the dope/epoxy over the edges of the covering film to prevent fuel or exhaust fumes getting "under the skin".
42. Epoxy the control surface hinges. Be sure the glue does not get into the hinges hindering the control surface movement. Remove any excessive epoxy with a paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol immediately.
43. Cut the covering film over the notches for the fin and horizontal stabilizer in the fuselage. Epoxy the fin and stabilizer in place. Remove any excessive epoxy with a paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol immediately. Double check the fin was square to the horizontal stabilizer.
44. Epoxy the tail skid in place.
45. Glue the wing bolt captive nuts into the fuselage braces 48 & 49.
46. Assemble the main undercarriage and secure it with two M4×20 mm bolts to the fuselage.
47. Glow engine: Install the engine mount and your engine with silencer. Insert and glue the throttle push rod outer tube into the fuselage. Install the throttle servo into the servo tray/switch holder 70 and glue the tray into the fuselage ensuring free movement of the throttle push rod. You can fit the receiver battery switch to the tray 70 (flipped by a piece of 0.8 mm piano wire from the outside of fuselage - not supplied in the kit). Assemble the fuel tank and test it is tight and secure. Install the fuel tank wrapped in thin rubber foam into the fuselage. Hook up all the tubings - use a pressurized fuel system; do not forget a good fuel filter - like KAVAN KAV0019 - between the tank and carburettor.
48. Electric motor: Install your motor with the radial mount, thread the motor cables into the fuselage. Connect the ESC (secure it with a strip of hook and loop tape into the fuselage).
49. Install your receiver, servos and receiver resp. flight battery. Turn your radio on and set neutral positions of servos. Insert the Z-bend on one end of the rudder, elevator and throttle push rod into the corresponding servo arms, thread the push rods into the respective outer tubes, attach the arms to the servos and secure them with screws. Slide and cyano plastic tubings on the aileron push rods as a means of stiffening. Insert the Z-bends into aileron servo arms.
50. Secure the control surfaces using strips of masking tape or other suitable means in the neutral (centre) position. Tack fit the control horns with a piece of thin double sided sticky tape to the respective control surfaces so the holes for pushrod in the horns were in line with the hinge pins. Mark the correct length of the push rods and make Z-bends on them. Thread the horns on the Z-bends and secure the horns to the control surfaces with screws. Alternatively you can install push rod connectors (e.g. KAVAN KAV3060A/10 - not supplied in the kit) to the servo arms that will allow precise setting of the control linkage any time.
51. Glow engine: Install the throttle push rod ensuring free movement over the entire range of the carburettor from fully closed to fully open position. We recommend fitting a push rod connector to the throttle servo arm - it will make setting up much easier.
RC set installation and preflight check
Referring to the instruction manual of your radio carefully hook up the on-board electronics. Once everything has been correctly connected, turn on your transmitter and plug in the flight (receiver) pack. Check the neutral positions and throws of all control surfaces. If you needed to make the control surface throws smaller, simply move the pushrod closer to the centre on the servo arm or move it far from the control surface on the control horn. And vice versa.
Recommended throws | Low rate | High rate | ||
Rate | Expo | Rate | Expo | |
Ailerons | ± 5 mm | 30–40 % | ± 7 mm | 40–50 % |
Elevator | ± 7 mm | 30–40 % | ± 10 mm | 40–50 % |
Rudder | ± 11 mm | 30–40 % | ± 15 mm | 50 % |
The "Low rate" recommended control surface throws are suitable for a less skilled pilot and classic pattern aerobatics. The "High rate" setting is for 3D aerobatics and skilled pilots.
Electric: Check the direction of rotation of the propeller. If it was incorrect, simply swap two of the three wires between the ESC and motor or program the ESC (refer to the ESC manual).
Glow engine: If you install a brand new engine, you will have to run-in the engine following its instruction manual first. Before take off check the throttle servo function; double-check the idle and full throttle positions are correct. Be sure you can stop the engine by pulling the throttle stick and throttle trim all the way down or using the Throttle Cut function on your radio. Check the correct position of the centre of gravity (CG) – marked "" on the building plan. Adjust the CG position by moving the flight resp. receiver pack - if you cannot reach the recommended position, do not hesitate to add an appropriate amount of lead to the nose or tail. An extra couple of grams won't spoil the flying characteristics - but the incorrect CG position is a killer. Fully charge your flight pack and transmitter batteries, check the proper function of your radio and perform the range check of your radio according to its instruction manual. The range has to be almost the same with the motor off and at full throttle (no more than 10 % decrease is acceptable). DO NOT try to fly unless the range check is 100 % successful.
Flying
The test flying and fine tuning is pretty much straightforward, there will be no surprise for a medium-advanced pilot that is supposed to fly this model.