KAVAN Mirai V-tail - Instruction manual
Introduction
Precautions
This RC model is not a toy. Use it with care and strictly following the instructions in this manual.
Assemble this model following strictly these instructions. DO NOT modify or alter the model. Failure to do so, the warranty will lapse automatically. Follow the instructions in order to obtain a safe and solid model at the end of the assembly.
Children under the age of 14 must operate the model under the supervision of an adult.
Assure that the model is in perfect conditions before every flight, taking care that all the equipment works correctly and that the model is undamaged in its structure.
Fly only in days with light breeze and in a safe place away from any obstacles.
You must build the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe of unflyable model. Take time to build straight, true and strong. Use proper radio and other equipment that is in first class condition, properly install all the components and test their correct operation before first and any further flight. Fly the model only with competent help from a well experienced modeller if you are not already an experienced RC pilot.
Specification
Wingspan | 1995 mm |
Length | 1210 mm |
All–up weight | 420 g plus |
Wing section | Special RES HB |
CG position | 80 mm |
Controls | Rudder, elevator, airbake, (motor) |
Recommended RC equipment
- Rudder and elevator servo: Hitec HS-53 2×
- Spoiler servo: Hitec HS-65MG, Dymond D47
- Receiver battery: Panasonic Eneloop AAA 800mAh 4.8 V pack
Recommended glues
Unless stated otherwise, use medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue (KAV9952 KAVAN CA Medium). D-box sheeting and wing ribs are better to be glued using a water-resistant white aliphatic resin, like our KAV9960 KAVAN White Glue (alternatively, you can use this sort of glue for most of wood-to-wood joints). The highly loaded parts (wing roots, wing main spars, firewall etc.) should be glued together using 30 minute (or slower) epoxy (like KAV9967 Epoxy 30 min) offering high strength and enough time for the correct positioning.
Tools and accessories
- Very sharp modeller’s knife (e.g. Excel 16001 with No. 11 blades)
- Scissors
- Electric drill with drill bits
- Wire cutter
- Long nose pliers
- Screwdrivers
- Razor saw
- Sandpaper No. 80, 100, 180, 360–400
- Needle files
- Soldering iron and solder
- Clothing pegs
- Modeller’s pins
- Epoxy mixing stick and vessel
- Masking tape, clear sticky tape
- Rubbing alcohol (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
- Paper tissue or soft cloth (for cleaning up excessive epoxy)
- Straightedge with scale
- Square edge
- Thin clear plastic film (for protecting the building plan)
- Permanent marker
- Modeller’s sealing iron, heat gun (for covering)
- Lightweight balsa filler
Model assembly
Tail surfaces
Everything has been designed extremely light; yet strong enough. The tail feathers are removable for easy transport/storage.
- Trial fit the parts of the stabilizers and control surfaces – no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain perfect fit. (Fig. 1)
- Tack glue the plastic tubes V14 into the stabilizers with a few drops of CA.
- Roughen the surface of the 3×0.5mm V10 carbon spars using no. 150 sandpaper and glue them with medium CA to the trailing edges of the stabilizers.
- Glue together all the balsa parts using medium CA or aliphatic resin.
- Glue the stabilizer root ribs V4L/V4R (1.2 mm plywood). Use the V16 carbon rods inserted into the V14 tubes as alignment pins for the V4L/V4R root ribs. Double-check the root ribs were straight and square to the stabilizers. Take care the V16 rods were not glued in to the fin in this step. (Fig. 2)
- Put the tail surfaces aside for now. They will be finished after the tailplane seats are installed to the tail boom.
Fuselage (glider version)
- Trial fit the parts of the fuselage– no glue yet! Sand as necessary to obtain perfect fit. (Fig. 3)
- Glue the Lite Ply reinforcement plates F3 and F5L to the inner side of the F17L fuselage side (with the large opening for the F16 hatch). Glue the plates F3 and F5R to the inner side of the F17R fuselage side (without the hatch opening). (Fig. 4)
- Glue the F6 locking plate to the front of the F16 hatch. The locking plate has to match the position of a notch in the F5L reinforcement plate and the hatch matched the opening in the F17L fuselage side. The pair of F21 magnets will be epoxied into the F16 hatch and F5L plate only after the fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron might demagnetize the magnets. (Fig. 14)
- Epoxy together the tail boom holder consisting of the Lite Ply part F13 and plywood parts F10 and F14. Attach the F9 wing bolt plate with the M5 aluminium captive nut epoxied in place. Insert the entire assembly of the tail boom holder between the fuselage sides. Now you can start gluing the fuselage from the rear to the nose. (Fig. 6)
- Glue together the nose part of the fuselage; do not forget bevelling the edges of the fuselage formers and F18 and F19 Lite Ply braces as required. (Fig. 9)
- Epoxy the F9 wing bolt plate and the tail boom holder assembly in place.
- Bevel the F1 nose blocks and glue in place.
- Partially cut (ca 1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the front edge of the F2 fuselage former and glue them to the F1 blocks (the cut line is to be soaked with thin CA before the final sanding).
- Epoxy the tow hook plate F15 in place. Glue the F20 carbon ballast tube into the holes in F7 and F8 formers. (Fig. 10)
- Glue the upper and lower 2.5 mm balsa sheeting to the fuselage. Slide the tail boom tube F22 onto the tail boom holder – do not glue yet. Fit and glue the balsa fairing plates F11 and F12 in place. Carefully match all the parts so the tail boom had a tight fit but remained still easily detachable. (Fig. 11) (Fig. 12)
- Sand the entire front part of fuselage. Take care all the parts including the F11/F12 fairing created a smooth transition between the fuselage and the tail boom. (Fig. 14)
- Insert the V16 carbon rods into the pre-drilled holes in the tail boom; glue them in place. The bottom ends or the rods should stick out by ca 0.5 mm from the tail boom (there is an opening in the bottom side of the tail boom in order to accommodate the tail skid V12) – refer to Det. D. (Fig. 2)
Fuselage (electric version)
- The building sequence of the electric version fuselage is basically the same as with the glider version except for the firewall, nose and servo tray. Also, the F20 ballast tube is not to be used.
- Instead of Lite Ply F3 reinforcement plates, glue the balsa triangular sticks E4 along the edges of fuselage sides F17L and F17R. (Fig. 5) (Fig 7)
- Epoxy the E3 servo tray behind the F7 fuselage former.
- Epoxy the firewall E2 in place. Before you epoxy the firewall in, make sure the openings and holes in the firewall match your motor – make any changes as necessary or cut a new firewall to match your motor perfectly.
- Once the bottom and upper sheeting is in place cut the fuselage sides flush with the front edge of the E2 firewall. Temporarily install your motor and use the spinner as a jig to align the E1 plywood ring. Once satisfied, epoxy it in place. Sand the nose to the desired shape matching your spinner. (Fig. 9) (Fig. 10)
Tail surfaces - continued
- Glue the V9 pins into the tailplane seats V8L and V8R. (Fig. 15)
- Slide tailplane seats V8L and V8R onto the V16 carbon rods.
- Insert the V13 tailplane locks into the notches in the stabilizers (do not glue yet). (Fig. 16)
- Slide the stabilizers onto the V16 carbon rods and push against the V8R/ V8L seats until you hear the click announcing the V13 lock has engaged the V9 pin of the stabilizer seat. Tack glue the locks into the stabilizers with a few drops of CA. (Fig. 17)
- Push the stabilizers together with the tailplane seats to the tail boom and tack glue the seats to the tail boom (apply the cyano sparsely; keep away from the locks and V16 carbon rods).
- Remove the stabilizers and epoxy the V8R/V8L seats to the tail boom. Work thoroughly, but apply the epoxy sparsely. Prevent the glue from running into the openings for the stabilizer locks.
- The ruddervator horns V11 as well as the V12 tail skid will be glued in later, after the tail surfaces are covered.