KAVAN Beta 1400 Kit - Instruction manual/fr

Introduction

Félicitations pour l’achat de votre planeur motorisé BETA 1400 ! Vous êtes sur le point de vivre une aventure incroyable dans le monde passionnant des avions RC à propulsion électrique. Le BETA 1400 est fabriqué en mousse EPO quasiment incassable et équipé de la technologie radio 2.4GHz la plus avancée. Propulsé par un puissant moteur brushless et des batteries LiPo, il vous permettra de devenir rapidement un pilote expérimenté. Le BETA 1400 n’est pas seulement un avion pour débutants, mais aussi un excellent planeur thermique qui ravira aussi bien les nouveaux venus que les pilotes aguerris.

KAV02.8086 KAVAN Beta 1400 - kit

Caractéristiques

• Kit de construction, pièces en mousse EPO
• Commandes d’ailerons, profondeur, dérive et gaz
• Manipulation facile, grande stabilité, planeur motorisé électrique durable et quasiment incassable
• Grande surface alaire, faible poids

SPÉCIFICATIONS TECHNIQUES

Envergure	1400 mm
Longueur	966 mm
Poids total	700–770 g
Surface alaire	24.5 dm²
Charge alaire	28.6–31.4 g/dm²
Moteur recommandé*	C2814-1400 outrunner
ESC recommandé*	KAVAN R-20B 20 A with BEC 5 V

*) Non fourni dans le kit.

Précautions

Ce modèle RC n'est pas un jouet. Utilisez-le avec soin et suivez strictement les instructions de ce manuel.

Assemblez ce modèle en suivant strictement ces instructions. NE modifiez PAS le modèle. Si vous ne respectez pas ces consignes, la garantie sera automatiquement annulée. Suivez les instructions pour obtenir un modèle sûr et robuste à la fin de l'assemblage.

Les enfants de moins de 14 ans doivent faire fonctionner le modèle sous la supervision d'un adulte.

Assurez-vous que le modèle soit en parfait état avant chaque vol, en veillant à ce que tout l'équipement fonctionne correctement et que la structure du modèle ne soit pas endommagée.

Volez uniquement par des jours avec une légère brise et dans un endroit sûr, loin de tout obstacle.

PRÉCAUTIONS DE SÉCURITÉ

Avertissements généraux

Un avion RC n’est pas un jouet ! En cas de mauvaise utilisation, il peut causer des blessures graves et des dommages matériels. Volez uniquement dans un endroit sûr, en suivant toutes les instructions et recommandations de ce manuel. Faites attention à l’hélice ! Éloignez tous les objets susceptibles de se prendre dans l’hélice en rotation, tels que les vêtements amples, les crayons ou les tournevis. Veillez à ce que vos mains et votre visage, ainsi que ceux des autres, restent à distance de l’hélice pendant son fonctionnement.

Remarque sur les batteries Lithium Polymère

Les batteries lithium-polymère sont beaucoup plus sensibles que les batteries alcalines ou NiCd/NiMH utilisées dans les applications RC. Toutes les instructions et avertissements du fabricant doivent être suivis de près. Une mauvaise manipulation des batteries LiPo peut entraîner un risque d'incendie. Suivez toujours les instructions du fabricant lors de l'élimination des batteries lithium-polymère.

Précautions supplémentaires et avertissements de sécurité

En tant qu'utilisateur de ce produit, vous êtes entièrement responsable de son utilisation d'une manière qui ne met pas en danger votre sécurité, celle des autres, ni de causer des dommages au produit ou à la propriété d'autrui. Ce modèle est contrôlé par un signal radio qui peut être sujet à des interférences provenant de nombreuses sources échappant à votre contrôle. Ces interférences peuvent entraîner une perte de contrôle momentanée. Il est donc conseillé de toujours maintenir une distance de sécurité dans toutes les directions autour de votre modèle, car cette marge aidera à éviter les collisions ou les blessures.

Ne faites jamais fonctionner votre modèle avec des batteries d'émetteur faibles.

Opérez toujours votre modèle dans une zone dégagée, loin des lignes électriques, des voitures, de la circulation ou des personnes.

vitez de faire voler votre modèle dans des zones peuplées où des blessures ou des dommages pourraient survenir.

Suivez attentivement les instructions et les avertissements concernant ce produit et tout équipement de support optionnel (chargeurs, batteries rechargeables, etc.) que vous utilisez.

Gardez tous les produits chimiques, petites pièces et tout équipement électrique hors de portée des enfants.

L'humidité peut endommager l'électronique. Évitez tout contact avec l'eau pour les équipements qui ne sont pas spécifiquement conçus et protégés à cet effet.

Ne jamais lécher ni placer une partie de votre modèle dans votre bouche, car cela pourrait causer des blessures graves, voire mortelles.

Contenu du kit

• Pièces en mousse EPO moulées
• Petits accessoires
• Hélice repliable de 7×6" et cône d'hélice
• 2 planches d'autocollants

AUREZ ÉGALEMENT BESOIN DES ACCESSOIRES ET OUTILS SUIVANTS (NON INCLUS DANS LE KIT)

KIT RC, UNITÉ D'ALIMENTATION, BATTERIE

• Émetteur et récepteur avec au moins 4 voies
• Batterie LiPo 11,1 V 1600–2700 mAh
• KAVAN C2814–1400 brushless motor ou similaire
• ESC KAVAN R–20B 20 A ou similaire
• 4× servosKAVAN GO-09 ou similaires
• Câble Y court ou 2× câbles d'extension de 20 à 30 cm

OUTILS

• Petits tournevis Phillips et plats
• Clé Allen ou tournevis de 1,5 mm
• Pistolet à colle chaude
• Papier de verre n° 150–200

COLLE

• Colle cyanoacrylate à viscosité moyenne ou épaisse (e.g. KAV9952 or KAV9953)
• Frein-filet de faible ou moyenne résistance (blue - e.g. KAV9970)
• Colle chaude ou colle polymère MS (e.g. BISON Poly Max®, Soudal T-Rex®)
• Ruban adhésif transparent

ASSEMBLAGE

FUSELAGE

Le fuselage est fourni non assemblé (avec des tringles, des renforts en carbone et en contreplaqué pré-installés) dans le kit. Vous devez installer les servos et le moteur et coller les deux moitiés du fuselage ensemble. Poncez les zones de contact avec du papier de verre n° 150-200 avant d'appliquer la colle.

1. INSTALLATION DU SERVO DE DIRECTION (Fig. 1)

• Munissez-vous de la moitié droite du fuselage. Vous trouverez le compartiment pour le servo de direction de taille KAVAN GO-09dans la partie arrière du cockpit.
• Préparez le palonnier monobras fourni avec le KAVAN GO-09 (ou coupez un bras d'un palonnier double bras). Mettez sous tension votre émetteur, réglez le manche de direction et le trim au centre (neutre). Branchez le servo de direction à la sortie appropriée du récepteur (CH4 avec le T8FB), branchez le câble de l'ESC à la voie des gaz (CH3 avec le T8FB) et branchez la batterie. Insérez l'extrémité en "Z" de la tringlerie de direction dans le trou du milieu du palonnier du servo (environ 10 mm du centre du palonnier).
• Maintenant, insérez le servo dans le compartiment du servo, de sorte que le pignon de sortie du servo soit plus proche du nez.

Maintenant, fixez le palonnier du servo sur le pignon de sortie du servo - il doit être le plus perpendiculaire possible au côté du boîtier du servo. Sécurisez le palonnier du servo avec la vis fournie avec le servo. Collez le servo avec des gouttes de colle chaude ou de la colle MS polymère sur les supports du servo. Vous pouvez également utiliser une CA moyenne, mais la colle chaude ou la colle MS polymère peut être facilement retirée sans endommager votre modèle si jamais vous devez sortir le servo.

2. SUPPORT MOTEUR (Fig. 2+3)

• KAVAN C2814–1400 Le moteur brushless KAVAN C2814–1400 doit être fixé au support en aluminium fourni à l'aide de deux vis de fixation M3. Vérifiez le bon alignement du support moteur : les vis de fixation doivent pointer droit vers les trous d'accès sur le côté du fuselage. Collez le support moteur avec de la colle cyano épaisse ou de la colle MS polymère dans la fente du fuselage.
• Veuillez noter que le moteur est décalé vers le haut et la droite. Cette "inclinaison vers le haut" et ce "décalage latéral" sont corrects et purement intentionnels. Ils compensent l'effet du flux d'hélice sur le fuselage et la queue. Vérifiez l'alignement correct des deux moitiés du fuselage avant de coller définitivement le support moteur dans la coque droite du fuselage.
• Vérification du sens de rotation du moteur : Branchez les câbles du moteur à votre ESC et fixez le moteur dans le support moteur avec deux vis de fixation M2×6 mm. Avec votre radio allumée, vérifiez le sens de rotation de votre moteur (see Fig. 3) comme décrit dans le chapitre "INSTALLATION DU SET RC/7. Test du système d'alimentation" de ce manuel. Une fois correctement réglé, retirez le moteur du support.

3. INSTALLATION DU SERVO DE PROFONDEUR (Fig. 4)

• Munissez-vous de la moitié gauche du fuselage et installez le servo de profondeur de la même manière que vous l'avez fait avec le servo de direction. N'oubliez pas de régler le servo (CH2 avec le T8FB) en position neutre avec votre radio allumée.

4. ASSEMBLAGE DES COQUES DE FUSELAGE (Fig. 5)

• Fixez la coque gauche et la coque droite du fuselage ensemble. Veillez à ce qu'elles soient correctement alignées tout autour. Si nécessaire, poncez la zone de contact pour créer un joint propre. Une fois satisfait, appliquez un cordon de cyanoacrylate épais ou de colle MS polymère sur la coque droite du fuselage. (Une colle à prise lente est requise ici pour vous donner un peu de temps pour aligner correctement les coques du fuselage - et pour les vérifier à nouveau). Rassemblez les coques, vérifiez leur bon alignement et fixez-les avec des épingles de modélisme ou du ruban adhésif jusqu'à ce que la colle prenne. Vérifiez à nouveau que le fuselage est droit et non torsadé; en regardant le long de l'axe longitudinal du fuselage, le joint des coques doit être droit. Faites particulièrement attention à un bon alignement au niveau de l'aile et de l'empennage. C'est l'étape la plus critique de tout l'assemblage - c'est maintenant que vous allez réaliser un fuselage droit et conforme qui vous offrira un planeur agréable à piloter - ou non.

5. FINITION DU FUSELAGE (Fig. 6)

• Vérifiez la polarité des aimants de verrouillage de la verrière et collez-les avec de la cyano dans les logements respectifs à l'arrière du cockpit et de la verrière. Recouvrez le tout avec un morceau de ruban adhésif transparent à la fin.
• Collez (ou vous pouvez alternativement utiliser un ruban adhésif double face fin ou un ciment contact) le renfort en plastique sur le dessous du fuselage.
• près avoir installé le moteur (n'oubliez pas d'appliquer du frein-filet bleu sur les vis de fixation) et le contrôleur de vitesse (ESC), fixez le couvercle en plastique du servo dans le fuselage à l'aide de gouttes de colle chaude, de petits morceaux de ruban velcro ou de petits aimants (non fournis dans le kit). L'objectif est de maintenir le couvercle en place tout en le rendant amovible pour accéder aux servos si nécessaire.
• Installez le porte-hélice et fixez-le avec deux vis de fixation M3×6 mm (n'oubliez pas d'appliquer du frein-filet bleu sur les vis). Enfin, installez le cône d'hélice à l'aide de deux vis M2×8 mm. Assurez-vous que l'hélice tourne librement. Quoi qu'il en soit, les pales de l'hélice ne doivent pas toucher le fuselage. (Fig. 2)

AILE

1. LIBÉRATION DES AILERON

• Deflect the ailerons 10 times up and down carefully to make them move easily.

2. Aileron servos installation (Fig. 7)

• You can find moulded servo bays in both two wing halves that fit KAVAN GO-09 servos or similar. Set the aileron servos to neutral with your radio on (in the same way as you did with the elevator and rudder servos). Attach the one-sided servo arms so the arms are square to the side of the servo case as much as possible. Please note you must obtain a mirror image pair - simply lay both servos down on the table, the output shaft pointing towards each other and both the servo sides with servo cables pointing in the same direction. Now attach the servo arms - square to the servo case side, same on both two servos. Check the operation of aileron servos and secure the arms with screws supplied with the servos.
• Insert the servos into the servo bays and secure them with drops of hot melt glue or MS polymer glue over the servo lugs. Connect the supplied extension cables to the aileron servos. Deploy the servo cable (with the connector put neatly into the bay in the wing) in the aileron servo cable groove. The end of the cable should stick out of the wing by 10 cm (4") to allow inserting the cable into the fuselage. Apply a strip of clear sticky tape over the aileron servo cable grooves.

3. Aileron linkage installation

• Locate the two short piano wire pushrods with pre-formed Z-bend on one end in the accessories bag. Insert the Z-bend into the outer hole in the aileron servo arm. Insert the other end of the push rod into the push rod connector in the aileron arm. Repeat for the other wing half.
• (The position of a push rod in holes of a control arm is a way how to adjust control throws with a non-computer radio. Moving the push rod closer to the control surface gives bigger throws whilst moving the push rod to outer holes reduces the throws. You can also move the position of the push rod Z-bend on the servo arm - in this case, moving the push rod closer to the centre of the servo arm reduces the throws - and vice versa.)

4. Wing joiner (Fig. 8)

• Locate the carbon tube wing joiner, insert it into the housing in the fuselage and slide both wing halves onto the joiner.

5. Connecting the aileron servos (Fig. 9)

• A. A radio featuring only one aileron channel (like the T8FB supplied in the RTF set): Connect both two aileron servos to a Y-cable (not supplied in the kit). The aileron Y-cable is to be connected to the aileron channel of your receiver (CH1 in the case of T8FB).
• B: A radio featuring 2 independent aileron servo channels: Use two 20–30 cm extension cables (not supplied in the kit) to connect aileron servos to your receiver. Typically, CH1 and CH5 or CH6 – it depends on the transmitter and its setting. Please refer to the instruction manual of your radio.

6. Securing the wing

• Secure the wing halves by carefully tightening the M5×10 mm setting screws on the bottom side of the wing. (Fig. 10)

7. Aileron Servo Covers (Fig. 7)

• Once the aileron servo operation and aileron linkage have been set and tested successfully, glue the aileron servo covers in place.

Tail feathers

1. Releasing the elevator and rudder

• Deflect the elevator and rudder 10 times up and down (left and right) carefully to make them move easily.

2. Horizontal tailplane installation (Fig. 11+12)

• Glue the horizontal tailplane into the fuselage using medium or thick cyano. Be sure the elevator horn is on the bottom side. Before the glue sets, check the correct alignment of the horizontal tailplane - it has to be square to the fin.

3. Elevator and rudder linkage (Fig. 13)

• Insert the elevator and rudder push rods into the push rod connector in the elevator (rudder horn).

Applying the stickers

• Cut the stickers following the printed outlines. Apply them to the surface of your model dampened by water with a few drops of mild dish detergent. It allows re-positioning of the sticker if necessary. Once satisfied with the position, carefully smooth out the sticker with a soft cloth to remove all air bubbles.

RC set installation

Now you have to install/connect your receiver, servos and electronic speed controller (ESC).

1. Remove the canopy: lift the rear part to disengage the magnetic lock.
2. Following your radio instruction manual, connect the servos and ESC to your receiver – the table shows the channel assignment of the T8FB radio supplied in the RTF kit.
3. Put your receiver into the fuselage (into the rear part of the cockpit). You can secure it using a strip of hook-and-loop tape to the fuselage.
4. The flight battery pack is to be inserted into the nose of your BETA 1400 and secured by the hook-and-loop tape to the fuselage - the exact position of the battery pack will be determined later during the centre of gravity (CG) position check.

Function	Receiver channel (T8FB)
Ailerons	CH1
Elevator	CH2
Throttle	CH3
Rudder	CH4

Caution: Always turn on your transmitter first, and only then connect the flight pack to the ESC. From now on, always handle your model as if the motor might burst into life and the propeller started to spin anytime.

Pre-flight check

Checking the current setup

1. Assure that the transmitter is turned on (both the LEDs are on with the T8FB). Place all the trims in their neutral positions and set the throttle stick into the lowest position. Connect the flight pack to the ESC - the red LED on the receiver must glow. If it blinks or does not glow at all, the receiver and transmitter require establishing their link by the binding procedure - refer to page 6 in this manual.

2. Checking the control surface neutrals
   Please check that all the control surfaces are in the neutral position if the corresponding transmitter sticks and trims are in the centre position. If not, please loosen the setting screw of the corresponding push rod connector and set the control surface to the neutral position. The elevator and rudder have to be flush with the horizontal stabilizer (the fin). Both two ailerons have to be flush with the wing trailing edge. Once satisfied, apply a drop of threadlocker to the setting screw a tighten it.

   Caution: If the quick link gets loose during flight, your model will become partly or completely uncontrollable. Therefore, you should check the linkage regularly.

3. Testing the ailerons
   A. Move the aileron stick to the left; (looking from the tail to the nose) the left aileron must move up and the right aileron must drop down simultaneously.
   B. Move the aileron stick to the right; the left aileron must drop down and the right aileron must go up simultaneously.
   C. Return the aileron stick to the centre (neutral) - both two ailerons will return to the neutral position.

   Note: If the ailerons are moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the aileron reverse switch (AIL) on your transmitter.

4. Testing the rudder
   A. Move the rudder stick to the left; (looking from the tail to the nose) the rudder must move to the left.
   B. Move the rudder stick to the right; the rudder must move to the right.
   C. Return the rudder stick to the centre (neutral) - the rudder will return to the neutral position.

   Note: If the rudder is moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the rudder reverse switch (RUD) on your transmitter.

5. Testing the elevator
   A. The elevator stick is located on the left side of the Mode 1 transmitter or on the right side of the Mode 2 transmitter. Pull the elevator stick down; the elevator must move up).
   B. Push the elevator stick up; the elevator must move down.
   C. Return the elevator stick to the centre (neutral) - the elevator will return to the neutral position.

   Note: If the elevator is moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the elevator reverse switch (ELE) on your transmitter.

6. Control surface throws

   A. Radio featuring only one aileron channel
   Control	Low rate	Normal rate	Expo*
   Aileron	7 mm up and down	10 mm up and down	10–20 %
   Rudder	10 mm left and right	12 mm left and right	0–10 %
   Elevator	6 mm up and down	8 mm up and down	20–30 %

   B. Radio featuring 2 independent aileron servo channels
   Control	Low rate	Normal rate	Expo*
   Aileron	8 mm up/4 mm down	10 mm up/5 mm down	10–20 %
   Aileron (airbrake)	13 mm up	13 mm up	–
   Rudder	10 mm left and right	12 mm left and right	0–10 %
   Elevator	6 mm up and down	8 mm up and down	20–30 %
   Elevator (airbrake)	2 mm up	2 mm up	–

   *Expo – set to decrease the sensitivity around the neutral (Futaba, Hitec, Radiolink, Multiplex: -10/-20, Graupner: +10/+20 etc.)

   If you carefully followed the instructions in the previous sections of this manual, the correct default control surface throws have been set automatically. The control throws are set by the ratio between the length of the servo arm and the control surface throw - the actual throws set this way are listed in the column "Normal rate" in the table below. (The throws are always measured at the widest point of the particular control surface.) It is always better to try to reach the requested throws mechanically, adjusting the arm/horn length ratio - even if you have a fancy computer radio. If you have such a transmitter, you can use the function "Dual rate" (D/R) to get an even more forgiving setup - please refer to the "Low rate" column. You can also do it mechanically - simply move the push rod Z-bends on the servo arms closer to the centre.

7. Testing the Power system

   KAVAN T8FB/R-20B: Check the throttle channel reverse switch (THR) is in the "N" (up) position on the transmitter. Now perform the throttle range calibration procedure as described in the KAVAN R-20B manual (refer to the attachment) and check the motor brake function has been turned on.

   A) Turn on the transmitter, set the throttle stick to the lowest position, and connect the flight pack to the ESC in the model (ESC has to be set to the "Brake OFF" mode - if your ESC features this option). If the prop rotated slowly, please check the position of the throttle stick and throttle trim.

   B) Slowly move the throttle stick up, the prop should start to rotate clockwise (looking from behind). If it spins in the opposite direction, pull the throttle stick back, disconnect the flight battery and swap any two of the three cables between the motor and the ESC. The re-check again. Repeat the ESC throttle range calibration. Then re-check again.

   Note: If the motor does not respond to the throttle stick advance, check the model power cable connection and the state of charge of your battery.
   Caution: Keep away from the propeller once the battery is connected to the model. Do not try to stop the propeller with your hands or anything else.
8. Centre of gravity

   A) The CG has to be located 70–75 mm behind the leading edge of the wing. Balance your BETA 1400 supporting the wing with your fingertips 70 mm behind the leading edge for the first flight.
   B) You can fine-tune the CG position later to suit your requirements. Moving the CG forward the model flight will be more stable. Moving backwards, the controls will become more sensitive, also the thermalling performance might improve slightly.

   Note: Moving back the CG too much could cause your model would be hard to control or even so unstable that you would not be able to control it at all.

   Now you are ready to fly.

Flying

Choosing the field and weather

Flying Field

The flying field should be a flat grassy area. There should be no cars, persons, animals, buildings, power lines, trees, large stones or any other obstacles that BETA 1400 might collide with within the range of ca 150 m. We highly recommend you join a local model flying club – you will get access to their flying field, along with advice and help to make your first steps into model flying much easier and safer.

Weather

Calm summer evenings are perfect for the maiden flight. Your BETA 1400 is a light thermal glider that is the happiest with wind under 5 m/s. DO NOT fly when it is raining or snowing, on foggy days. Thunderstorms are clearly not the right time to fly either.

Range check

Perform the range check as described in the instruction manual of your radio. Ask a friend to hold the transmitter, and walk away holding the model in a regular flight position at the height of your shoulders. The servos have to respond to control inputs (control stick movements) without any glitching or jitter, with the motor off and at full throttle within the range stated by the radio manufacturer. Only prepare to fly if the range check is 100 % successful.

Caution: Never try to fly with your transmitter in the range check (reduced output power) mode.

First flight

Now, the most important advice in this entire manual:

During the first flight, we recommend that you have the support of an experienced RC pilot.

There is no shame in asking for help – new full-size aircraft are test flown by skilled factory test pilots – and only then are regular pilots allowed to take control. RC model control requires some skills and reflexes people are not born with. It is not complicated to gain these skills – it just takes some time. That will vary with your natural talent. Full-size pilots start under the supervision of a skilled instructor; they learn to fly at a safe altitude at first, learn landing and take-off techniques, and only then are they allowed to fly solo. The same principles apply to RC models, too. Please do not expect you will be able to put your model in the air and fly it without any previous RC experience. Many will have gained skills in controlling their favourite computer game character by hammering the control buttons or sticks. For model flying, this skill will have to be unlearnt! The stick movements required to control your model are small & gentle. Many models, including BETA 1400, are happier if you let them "fly by themselves" for most of the time, with small and gentle stick movements to simply guide the model in the required direction. RC flying is not about stick hammering, it is all about small stick movements, and observing the effect of those stick movements. Only later it is possible to anticipate the effect of larger stick movements that can be dangerous to your model in the earlier stages of model flying.

Launch the model against the wind.

Step 1: Hand launch and initial trimming

The model must be launched into the wind every time. Throw grass into the air to observe the wind direction.

Turn on your transmitter.

Connect and put the flight pack into the battery compartment and secure the canopy.

Hold your model with the wings and fuselage level (refer to the drawing) – it is better to ask a friend to launch your model than to do everything by yourself – you can then concentrate on the controls.

Give the model full throttle and launch your model with a gentle push straight and level. You will feel the point at which the model is trying to fly naturally. Don't push it too strong. Do not throw your model with the nose up, or greater than 10 degrees down. The model must have a certain minimum speed from the very start to stay airborne. It is not enough to just "put" your model in the air.

Launch the model against the wind.

If everything is OK, BETA 1400 will climb gently. If your BETA 1400 loses altitude, pull the elevator stick very slightly towards you (just a little!) to achieve a steady climb.

Step 2: Flying

Keep your BETA 1400 climbing until she reaches at least 50 m in height, then throttle back the motor enough to maintain the flight level. The real flying fun begins now.

Note: BETA 1400 is not a large model, so do not let her fly too far away. Please remember you can control your model only so long as you can see the model's orientation in the air. The safe range of your radio is much further than the range of your eyes!

How to control your model?

In contrast to cars or boats, aircraft fly in three-dimensional space making the full control more complex. Turning the steering wheel left or right makes a boat or car turn left or right, applying more throttle the vehicle speeds up – and this is it. Moving the control sticks left or right has more effect than simply turning the model. The aileron and rudder control will be explained later.

Please note that the control is fully proportional – the more you move the stick, the more movement of the control surface. The actual stick movement required is mostly quite small, and rarely from one end stop to the other.

Elevator

The levator controls the model on the vertical axis. Apply the up elevator, and your model’s nose will rise (and the model will climb if it has sufficient power). Apply the up elevator, and your model will descend. Please note that your model can only climb if enough throttle is applied. Your model will not necessarily climb just because you have applied the up elevator and will usually need full power applied for a safe, gentle climb. If the climb angle is too great or the power applied is insufficient, your model will lose flying speed until the minimum (stall) speed. At the stalling speed (when the airflow starts to break away from the upper surface of the wing), your model will start to feel as though it is not responding as normal to control inputs and then drop with little warning – apply the down elevator to regain flying speed and full normal control.

Ailerons

Ailerons control the bank angle. If you gently move the aileron stick to the left, your model will start to bank to the left as long as you are holding the stick. Now, if you return the aileron stick to the centre position (neutral), your model will maintain the bank. If you want to resume a straight flight, move the aileron stick in the opposite direction.

Coordinated left turn (180°)

Rudder

The rudder of a model without ailerons (you might be already familiar with) controls the bank angle, which then controls the rate of turn. The natural stability of your model keeps the wings level in normal straight flight. Since your BETA 1400 features "full-house" controls, including ailerons that are the main means to control the bank angle, the use of the rudder is slightly different. You can even start to control your model without using the rudder, but later, you will learn the correct coordinated turn actually requires both aileron and rudder inputs.

Any turn requires an appropriate bank angle – BETA 1400 will fly nice big and safe flat turns with only a small bank angle. During initial flights, never use a bank angle of greater than 45 degrees. By planning the direction that the model will take, normal turns will be made with less than 30 degrees of bank.

Move the rudder to the left a little way, and your model will bank into a gentle turn. Increase the rudder input a little more, and your model will continue turning to the left, but it will also start to descend. This is a good time to move the control stick to the centre to allow your model to recover from the dive!

Why does your model descend when only a rudder is applied?

Once the rudder leaves its exact vertical position, it also starts to behave as an elevator turned down, telling your model to dive. When in a banked turn, to maintain level flight, it is necessary to apply a little up elevator to counter the effect of the down-turned rudder. (Actually, the reason why your model descends in the bank is much more complex - the wing gives less lift in the bank as the vertical projection of the wing is the area that counts, and you also have to beat the inertia that tries to keep your model in the straight flight…) The elevator applied when your model is in a banked turn also works like a rudder - fortunately, it helps to maintain the turn.

In practice, the ailerons are used to put your model to the desired bank angle. The rudder is used to maintain it. The elevator input helps control the height whilst also increasing the rate of turn.

Alternatively, you can use only the ailerons to bank your model, then turn your model using just the elevator and finally resume the straight and level flight with the opposite deflection of ailerons.

We have got through about 3/4 of the turn and it is the time to think about returning to straight and level flight in the desired direction. Return the controls to the middle position (you may need to correct the turn with little right ailerons and/or rudder). If necessary, give slight elevator input to settle your model into a straight and level flight.

If you take a look at our drawing on the right, you will notice that it takes some time until the model actually starts to turn. And, when leaving the turn, you have to start applying the opposite ailerons and rudder sooner than when the nose of your model is pointing to the desired final direction. The elevator and rudder rates are marked with dotted lines – this is because you cannot tell exactly the track the model will take during a gentle banked turn or entry to a straight and level flight.

Congratulations!

You learnt how to achieve a coordinated turn using the rudder and elevator. Remember that model aircraft control is about guiding your model in the desired direction rather than precise steering. Another complication is the rudder control. It is easy and natural while the model is flying away from you, but when your model is flying towards you, the direction of control commands has to be reversed. A simple trick, when the model is flying towards you, is to move the control stick towards the wing that you want to lift, imagine supporting the wing by moving the stick under that wing – it works!

Appendix

Repairs and maintenance

• Please perform the range check at the beginning of each flying session.
• Before every take-off please check the correct control surface movement.
• After every landing check the plane for any damage, loose push rod connectors or push rods, bent undercarriage, damaged propeller etc. Do not fly again until the damage is repaired.

Although your BETA 1400 is manufactured of the extra tough and virtually unbreakable expanded polyolefin (EPO) foam, damages or broken parts may occur. Minor damage can be repaired simply by glueing the parts together with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue or with clear sticky tape. In case of major damage, it is always better to purchase a brand-new spare part. A wide range of genuine spare parts and accessories is available through the KAVAN dealers.

In the unfortunate event of a crash or heavy landing, no matter how minor or major, you must lower the throttle stick to its lowest position as quickly as possible to prevent damage to the electronic speed controller in the control unit.

Failure to lower the throttle stick and trim to the lowest possible positions in the event of a crash could result in damage to the ESC, which may require replacement of the ESC.

Note: Crash damage is not covered under warranty.

Guarantee

The KAVAN Europe s.r.o. products are covered by a guarantee that fulfils the currently valid legal requirements in your country. If you wish to make a claim under guarantee, please contact the retailer from whom you first purchased the equipment. The guarantee does not cover faults which were caused in the following ways: crashes, improper use, incorrect connection, reversed polarity, maintenance work carried out late, incorrectly or not at all, or by unauthorised personnel, use of other than genuine KAVAN Europe s.r.o. accessories, modifications or repairs which were not carried out by KAVAN Europe s.r.o. or an authorised KAVAN Europe s.r.o., accidental or deliberate damage, defects caused by normal wear and tear, operation outside the Specification, or in conjunction with equipment made by other manufacturers. Please be sure to read the appropriate information sheets in the product documentation.